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Somebody help me! I have a 2008 G6. My daytime low beam on drivers side does not come on during the day but the light works fine at dark. The passenger side light works during the day but not at night. Bulbs are new... headlight plug/socket has been replaced......What do I check for next?
 

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Just to be clear, do you use the Auto position of the headlamps switch?

So you noticed the symptoms first, then you replaced both sockets & lamps?

That is a problem I've never run across.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Just to be clear, do you use the Auto position of the headlamps switch?

So you noticed the symptoms first, then you replaced both sockets & lamps?

That is a problem I've never run across.
Socket melted on passenger side... due to corrosion and bulb not in tight. Replaced socket then the fun began. Could the socket change cause this on both sides? Only changed passenger side. Yes I use them on automatic. If I take them off automatic only the driver side works.
 

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check the wattage of the bulbs, they should be stock wattage.. anything over the stock wattage always has a chance to melt the socket and the bulb not working properly.
 

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Replace fuse #9 (RT Low Beam) in the underhood fuse block. The DRL circuit design on this car is very odd (to say the least) so you'll just have to trust me. I can find no legit reason they designed it the way they did but blowing fuse 9 produces exactly the strange side-to-side behavior you're experiencing. Makes you wonder what the circuit team was smokin' that day.

For future readers of this thread with the alternative issue (a blown fuse #7 (LT Low Beam)), the left low beam would be out both day & night while using the AUTO switch position.
 

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The headlight circuits in the G6 is quite funky! At least all you need to do is pull a fuse to get rid of those darn DRLs! haha
 

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Headlight Moisture

:eek: I am having problems with moisture getting in on the driver side headlight......I bought new ones about 5 months ago and it is doing the same thing!! :mad: I just recently put and HID kit in and had to drill holes in both assemblies and now they both have moisture in them....How do I go about repairing them because I don't wanna spend another 200 dollars on another set
 

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Has anyone ever gotten a warranty fix on their headlight circuit troubles? My problems started in 2008 shortly after I bought the car.

Both connectors on my '08 G6 had corroded and subsequently melted terminals and after several attempts to clean them and pack them with dielectric grease, only to have the problems return, I cut out the connectors and went with bullet connectors.

The terminals are not well sealed and so small that once they start corroding they seem to burn quite quickly thereafter.

Yesterday I took the pass. headlight out after it stopped lighting again and found the connector at the back of the socket was coming loose. Looks like poor design where the clip does not stay hooked and the pieces came apart. Noticed also that the insulation on the wires was melted together going into the back of the connector-probably got hot from the high impedance as the connector was coming apart.



Dealer told me in early '11 that they could put in a new wiring harness so I fixed it myself. Too bad I didn't know about G6s then what I know now and with flippant dealer attitudes over this crap I'm done with GM forever. This is a safety issue.



Couple of other threads:
http://www.g6ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11319&page=2
http://www.g6ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9405
 

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I agree it's poor circuit design. It only takes a small increase in resistance in a high current circuit such as the headlamps to create enough local heating to fry the connectors. At the very least they should be applying dielectric silicone gel on the factory floor. It's a way too common problem on many models.
 

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The headlight circuits in the G6 is quite funky! At least all you need to do is pull a fuse to get rid of those darn DRLs! haha
If you do that and leave the switch on auto, will the lights still turn themselves off and on at night? Maybe I'll give it a shot myself, tired of replacing lights, the DRL feature runs them down too fast.
 

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If you do that and leave the switch on auto, will the lights still turn themselves off and on at night? Maybe I'll give it a shot myself, tired of replacing lights, the DRL feature runs them down too fast.
Be aware that depending on your local climate/season when running without DRLs you may (or may not) see more condensation inside the headlamp housings. Lamp heat helps keep them dry internally.
 

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Has anyone tried swapping the headlights for 80 watters? I found some 7k hyper white halogens and they're 80w not 55. Would this be too much on the wiring?
 

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Has anyone tried swapping the headlights for 80 watters? I found some 7k hyper white halogens and they're 80w not 55. Would this be too much on the wiring?
I would advise against it. Those lamps will produce a lot more heat & draw more current then was intended in the circuit design.
 

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I have been having this issue with the connector at the back of the socket was coming loose due to it frying up and melting away.. How could I fix this issue, I know the connectors need to be replaced but any guide on how to do it and where to get connectors. Tired of replacing my head lights
 

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You can pick up replacement H11 connectors and any auto parts store. Then its a matter of cutting the old one out and wiring the new one in. The best connection would require soldering but you can also use crimp connectors. But for the amount of current the lights use I think soldering the wires would get you the best results.
 

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Is there a difference with the wires, when I bought the H11 connector it only came with 2 black wires

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

I found some info on how to complete.. Thanks for your help..

Here's what help me:

When splicing in the new harness connector this trick works well. There are two black wires that originally were crimped into one of the terminals in the socket. The new socket comes pre wired and only has one wire on each side. Join the original two wires together with a splicing terminal. Strip enough insulation from the wire from the new connector so that the bare wire can be folded in half. That will double the size of the wire on the new connector so that it will properly mate with the splice terminal that was used to join the two black wires together. Of course the heat shrink tubing needs to be installed on to the wiring before joining all three wires together.
 
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