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Help installing aftermarket car stereo/deck

48334 Views 49 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  AudioFreak
Hi y'all. Long time lurker, first time poster. Signed up specifically to get some help installing a car stereo. I'm a fairly technologically-inclined guy, so I figured replacing the stock stereo in my car wouldn't be much of a difficulty. WRONG.

I purchased this deck (thought not through Crutchfield) and figured it'd be an easy swap. I ripped apart the car to figure out I need an in-dash receiver kit, so I picked up this one. Then I go at it again, and find out I need a wiring harness to avoid chopping everything up, so I go out and get this one.

Now I've got everything I need to install this thing. I tried the other day, though, and couldn't get power to the unit. I'm 110% frustrated now and at a complete loss, so I need help. The harness kit came with a red 12V accessory wire (which I believe gives the unit its power) but I don't know how to hook it up or where. I read on various forums that it should go to the passenger side fuse box. The red wire came with a little fuse adapter thing so that you can plug it in with a fuse, so I stuck it in the radio fuse. No luck. I don't know if I hooked the wire up right at the harness, though, and it was cold as hell out, so I gave up, and now I'm here.

This process has totally sucked and any help would be amazing.

I've got a 2007 Pontiac G6. Sedan. Any other details I don't have right now, but can try and get later on.
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Thanks for the reply!

I matched all the wires between the harness I purchased and the wires that came with the deck, but there were a couple leftovers:

- a black wire from the deck
- an orange (non-striped) wire from the deck

I just left those as I was unsure of where they went.

Also, there was a red wire on both the deck wiring and the harness. This leaves me at a loss for where the 12V red wire goes that came with the harness. To I connect all three red wires (12V to fuse, from harness, from deck)?

There was also the black ground wire from the deck. Does this need to be grounded to something for the stereo to function? Or should I chop it and hook it up to the black wire that's open in the harness?
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So you would recommend stripping the ground wire on the deck and connecting it to the harness one? That would make everything much simpler.
Alright, I'll give it a shot and report back. Probably won't have time to open 'er up until Wednesday. Thanks for the help!
Tried wiring everything straight, didn't work. When I connect the harness to the car, and then the harness to the deck itself, I can hear the CD eject noise. After that, though, nothing. No power to the unit. What should I do now?
I've got a manual multimeter. What am I testing? AC or DC? How do I test the wires? Will I be able to test the wires through the sheath, or should I go through the exposed ends through the harness.
Got it tested. Results:

Yellow: gave me about 13-14V
Red: nothing at all

What's the next step. Take the red wire coming out of the deck and hook it up to the red wire that came with the harness, which I will then connect (using the fuse tap that came with it) to the ignition fuse?
Good news: we now have power.

Bad news: we always have power. It stays on regardless of whether the key is in the ignition or not, whether the car is on or not, whether I'm sitting in the house or not. Also, no sound.

I tapped into "IGN SENSOR" on the fuse panel. Here's the fuse panel: http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j5/XGamesJ6/BOX.png
Tapped into HVAC CTRL, now it starts and shuts off with the car.

However, no sound still. Any ideas?
I'm pretty confident in my colour-matching skills, so I think I hooked everything up correctly. I tried an iPod, a CD, and the radio; nothing on each.
Interesting development: I left everything as-was last night, and when I got up to drive to work this morning, nothing on my dash was working. Speedometer, gas gauge, none of it showed any signs of life. I parked, turned the car off, pulled the 12V deck wire off the fuse tap and they came back to life when I started the car. Should I find a different fuse?
Anything else I need? Do I need to purchase any fuses with it?

And also, since you're in Canada as well, where would I get one of these? Radio Shack?
Picked an add a circuit up from Canadian Tire. Installed it, but things are still wonky. Usually when I start the car, the dash needles will go where they should (RPM's will go to about 1K, gas gauge will show gas level) but then they'll stop working, usually within a few seconds.

And still, I've got no sound.
Just installed my double din everything works fine but no sound. Like it's been said it must be the amp. But what do I do with it? Disconnect it, jump it out?? What do I do?? Help
No offense man, but don't hijack my thread. If you want help for your issue, start your own thread. I'm working on solving issue, so there's no way I'd be able to help you with your own.
And that's fine, but when you post your own stuff on my thread, it mixes everything up and/or makes others think the question is getting answered. Your issue doesn't exactly pertain to mine, either, because you have the Monsoon sound system, whereas I don't.
Sorry for not replying sooner, I've had a load of school work to do.

First, the dash issue. If you remove the fuse tap and just put the original fuse back in, does that solve the issue or is it still there? If its still there, try putting the OEM radio back in and see if that fixes the issue. If it does, I would bet the harness is causing the issue.

As for the sound issue. Thats a tough call. I'd make sure all the settings in your radio are correct. If they are, my next test would be to check the voltage on the speaker wires behind the radio. You should have 2 green, 2 purple, 2 grey and 2 white wires coming out of the radio. Each set will have 1 wire with a black tracer on it. The one with the tracer is your negative, while the solid one is your positive. Turn your volume up about half way and measure the AC voltage across the wires. If there is nothing there, the issue is with the radio. If there is something there, I would bet the issue is with the harness.
Hey man, no harm no foul. I appreciate that you've got school work to do. Priorities. I'm just thankful for the help.

Dash issue: if I remove the fuse tap, the issue fixes itself. I've also narrowed it down slightly: when the fuse is tapped and the stereo is hooked up, there's a couple second delay before it gets power when I turn the car on. For those couple seconds, the dash indicators work. As soon as the stereo comes on POOF the needles all die. This same thing happened when I just had the cheap tap that came with the harness. I've got no idea what's up here. Only thing I can think of is that maybe the stereo isn't getting enough power? It's on a 10-amp fuse though, and the add a circuit I got only supports a max of 10A. Then again, I know so little about electrical I may be talking out my rear.

Sound issue: I've checked the stereo for any settings and they seem to be good. I read in another post something about the guy having to send the sound out the normal wires instead of the RCA jacks and that solved his issue, but I've been unable to find something like that. I'll give it another go over though. I'll try and measure the voltages tomorrow and see what's going on. What am I looking for from each wire in terms of voltage? Anything? Or a specific value. I've got the OEM stereo in, and everything works fine.

If it's an issue with that damn harness, then I'm gonna just go the route of hard-wiring. Which I will need more help with, because the wires don't all match up. If the issue is the harness, is it likely that hard-wiring the speakers should solve that issue?
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The radio should be fine with the 10A fuse. I would start by trying a different fuse to tap into and see if that fixes it.
Tried to tap into AIRBAG (IGN) and the same thing happened. It wasn't necessarily when the stereo turned on, but when it tried to play a CD that everything went kaput. I forgot to turn the car off when I pulled the tap out of the ignition, and when I pulled it out you could instantly see everything shoot to life. So I have no idea what's going on. Totally lost. Not good at this kind of electrical stuff at all.

For the sound, you only use the RCAs if you have an amp attached to the radio. Otherwise the sound needs to go out the regular wires (your green, white, grey and purple). When checking the voltage, you are not looking for any specific value as that is volume dependant. You just want to know that it is there.
It would appear that there is something coming out of the speakers. I just uncovered the green wires and tested them, and it shot anywhere from 0 to 1.8A, averaging around 0.3A. This was before the harness connection, though. I'm not sure how I would test whether or not there is any signal getting past the harness without stripping wires.

I would advise not hardwiring to the car harness. Not only will it be worse than this experience, but it could cause even more problems.
That is exactly what I didn't want to hear. If the harness is a POS, which it appears it is, I don't know what I'm gonna do. Literally the only harness I could find that came out and said "yes, it will work with your make/model" was on eBay. I couldn't find any from any reputable dealers (like Crutchfield), so I went to eBay. I found this one from Crutchfield, but when I put my car into the car selector thing it tells me it doesn't fit. There's this one but, again, it says it's for a 2006 G7, whereas I have the 2007. I found this thread on the site of a guy going directly into the wires with, what it seems, some success. Then again, that doesn't solve the problem of the power tripping or whatever is happening.

This whole mess of an ordeal is getting me super frustrated. And the only solutions ever seem to be "throw more money at it and buy X and Y."

It's to the point now where I'm considering just driving the car and the deck to a car audio place and leaving it there and telling them to do it. I'd rather pay out all at once then keep trying to piece away at it, spending the same amount of money anyway. Do places like Carphonix even do that? Let you show up with your own stereo?
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Well got my bubble bust today, I went to see about getting my new stereo install, had all the parts, then dude told me that I needed this Metra 95-3303B, in order to keep the info on the car, this thing cost $229.00 to $299.00, now I'm pissed and wondering if I should just get rid of the GPS, DVD, SD card slot, Ipod connect, Bluetooth, backup camera, system or just get rid of my G6.
Well, first thing's first I would get a second opinion.

Other than that, I share your pain. Unless you want to keep the DIC (all the info), you shouldn't need the Metra kit. It's handy, but not essential, so I'm willing to go without. You've got quite a few extra things there, whereas I'm just looking at a simple double DIN deck, so I don't know what else you may need, if the Metra kit is a necessity.

But for me, it should work without the Metra. I'm at the same point as you; looking around town to see how much a professional install will cost. The place I'm talking to brought up the Metra kit. I told them I'm not interested in keeping the DIC, and they have yet to get back to me. If they say it's essential, I'm going elsewhere. If I get the same second opinion, the stereo is going back. Unfortunately I can't get rid of the G6 just yet, but it's just another reason not to keep it.
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Yes dude to me that he could take the stock radio and put it in the trunk then run wires through that to keep the DIC, I told him that I don't use the stering wheel controls anyway, then he told me that I can go with the Metra 95-3303B, and he will put it in the glove box, so I said let me look around to see if I can find the Metra 95-3303B myself, and its costing the same everywhere, But I did find a used one for $165, but I will look at some other shops, and the cost to install the system is in the range of $80.00 to a $130.00.
Quite the racket they have going.

0-1.8A or 0-1.8V?

You could try taking measurements at the speakers. They should be more or less the same as at the harness.
Ah rats. Volts, I think. I was doing something else with amps at the time, hence the confusion.

How do I take the measurement at the speakers? Do I have to pull the speaker out of the door?
You could do that. I would just test the back ones. They are easily accessible from the trunk.
Alright, let's get hypothetical:

I test the speakers, I get nothing (which is hardly hypothetical at this point). What then? We assume the harness is garbage and then the next step is... harness roulette until I find one that works?
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