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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 G6 GTP Convertible with the 3.9L engine.
Ages ago I had a water leak (very typical of these engines - water pump gasket or crossover tube), fixed that. And googled around till I found the official air purge instructions from GM shop manual (since the 3.9L does not have a bleeder screw it is convoluted). Long story short, I need to purge it again, but no amount of google-foo of mine is finding those official GM shop manual instructions this time. I have seen all the regular old "typical advice" which works on most cars... the official procedure is very **very** convoluted and is the only thing that worked for me last time.


EDIT 2018.05.20 I found the proceedure and am reposting here for anyone who needs it - this is straight from GM in 2010.

1. Close the radiator drain cock.
2. If a complete engine block drain was required, install the coolant drain plugs
to the engine block. Refer to Draining Fluids and Oil Filter Removal for the
3.5L engine or to Draining Fluids and Oil Filter Removal for the 3.9L engine.
Important: Use a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL antifreeze and clean,
drinkable water.
3. Slowly fill the cooling system with a 50/50 coolant mixture until the coolant
level is visible and stable. Refer to Approximate Fluid Capacities .
4. Install the pressure cap loosely (threaded on about one turn).
5. Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2500 RPM and hold it there for
40 seconds, then shut engine off.
6. Remove the pressure cap and fill the coolant system until the level is visible
and stable.
7. Install the pressure cap loosely (threaded on about one turn).
8. Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2500 RPM and hold it there for
30 seconds, then shut engine off.
9. Remove the pressure cap and fill the coolant system until the level is visible
and stable.
10. Install the pressure cap loosely (threaded on about one turn).
11.Start the engine and raise the engine speed to 2500 RPM and hold it there for
20 seconds, then shut engine off.
12.Remove the pressure cap and fill the coolant system until the level is visible
and stable.
13. Install the pressure cap, fully threaded on.
14. Fill the coolant recovery bottle to the indicator line, then add 400 milliliters
(13.5 ounces) more.
15.Start the engine and run it above 2500 RPM until it is hot enough to open the
thermostat, this will allow the trapped air to be purged from the engine.
16.Complete a series of three, 4-second-duration idles with 4-second-duration
3000 RPM cycles.
17. Turn the engine off and allow it to cool down to room temperature.
18. Fill the coolant recovery bottle to the indicator line.
19. Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant using the J 26568 .
20.Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
© 2010 General Motors. All rights reserved.
 

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Here's what both my manuals show:
I colored in RED the stuff not pertaining to your engine so you can just skip it

Fill Procedure
1. Notice: The procedure below must be followed. Improper coolant level could result in a low or high coolant level condition, causing engine
damage.
Install the engine block coolant drain plugs.
2. Close the radiator drain plug.
3. Lower the vehicle.
4. Vehicle should be level.
5. Add a mixture of 50/50 DEX-COOL(r) antifreeze and clean drinkable water until the level stabilizes at the weld seam on the surge tank.
6. For the 3.5L (LX9) engine only, unscrew the coolant bleed screw on the engine until coolant comes out of the bleed screw.
7. For the 3.5L (LX9) engine only, close the bleed screw.
8. Add coolant until the level stabilizes at the weld seam on the surge tank.
9. Install the surge tank cap.
10. Important: DO NOT exceed 2,200 RPM.
Start the engine and run at 2,000 RPM until the engine cooling fans turn ON.
11. Remove the surge tank cap.
12. Refill to the weld seam on the surge tank.
13. Important: Coolant should be at the full cold mark when the system cools.
Install the surge tank cap.
14. Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant using J26568. (Coolant tester tool)
15. Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks much for the info, can I probe just a little further on your source?.... Is that from a Chiltons or or... you say "manual" ... What I read so many months ago was a GM Shop Procedure Bulletin or TSB or something like that, can't find the same link again (spent another hour but my google-foo is still no-go) but it was definitely not just your generic for all models process found in the aftermarket manuals.
 

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That's the procedure listed in AllData and Mitchell onDemand.

I often help out at a buddies shop. Every cooling system he fills he uses a Coolant Vacuum Filler.
Whole system gets a vacuum pulled on it, then a valve is opened and the vacuum gets replaced with coolant/water
No where for air pockets to hide then. Simple test drive to ensure function and that usually is the end of it.


It also solved an overheating issue with my friends infiniti. Apparently an air bubble near the thermostat prevented it from opening and it would just overheat, After a vacuum fill the problem was gone. Later come to find that there's a bleeder valve on those engines.
 
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