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Pontiac G6 GT Headlight Connector Rebuild (5 Wire Connector)

A How-To for those with troubled headlights

Note: I attempted to put this entire How-To in one post, but it was to big - I found that there is a 10,000 character limit

Needed Materials/Tools;

Soldering Iron - (recommend a 40W Iron) w/ stand.
Solder - (of course)
Solder extractor - (removes blobs of solder from unwanted locations – AKA solder sucker [no joke, lol])
Solder Flux - (removes any oxidation [rust causing stuff])
Some toothpicks - (for handling the flux)
Shrink Tubing - (to cover all the solder joints). You can get a kit with various sized tubing.
Wire Flexible Tubing – (To organize all the wires afterwards)
Wire cutters – (To obvious to mention)
Wire stripper – (If you’ve done wire work before you can use the cutter to strip the insulation off)
Wire {10” lengths – 10 pieces for one headlight, 20 for both} (same or next larger size gauge) – Color is your choice (I used black)
Dielectric grease – (For the final part – gives a good connection and prevents corrosion)
Silicon sealant - (I’ll explain this in a bit)
Note pad
Pen or pencil

Parts needed:

The connectors (of course). I searched the web but could not find the original connector.


I cannot remember who it was, but one of the members in here clued me into the connectors that I used (see image below) that I got from Summit Racing (included link) - http://m.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all76270/media

Before you cut off the old connectors (like I did), on your note pad write down the center of the page the letters

- A -
- B -
- C -
- D -
- E -​

Just like that. Then write down the wire color for the pins of the old connector while the connectors are still joined together! This is very important as the wire colors on each side may not be the same color. They may even be different on each side of the car (mine were!!!)

After doing this, you should have something similar to;

Car side Headlight side

Black - A - Black
Tan/White - B - White
Green/Black - C - Blue/Green
Brown - D - Brown
Blue/White - E - White/Grey

(Remember – your colors may [probably] will not match mine) – (and they may not be the same on both sides, so you may need to do this twice).
After this take a short break – have smoke/beer/whatever – just walk away for about 5 min. Then go back and double-check your list for the wire colors and pins. Doing this will save lots of problems later.

A side note: Wires with 2 colors are written with the stripe as the second color, i.e. Tan/White – Tan is the main color and White is the stripe color. Just for your info.

On to the new connector assembly

These are the parts laid out – Grommets, Pins, Connectors, and Bodies.


You’ll notice that this connector is made for 6 wires (the pins are labeled “A” – “F”), you only need 5 (so leave “F” empty, you’ll fill that with the silicone sealant later).

Plug in your soldering iron to heat it up. While you iron is heating, cut your wire into 10” lengths (this gives a bit extra in case of mistakes). Strip approx. ¾” of insulation off of both ends of the wires.

If you’re not used to soldering, you may want to practice on a few pieces of extra wire.

Apply a little bit of flux to the ends of the wire (easier to do this part one at a time). Heat the end of the wire with your iron, the flux burns off any oxidation from the wires.
Touch your solder to both the wire and iron tip at the same time until you get solder melt. The wire will wick up the melted solder. Remove the solder, then the iron and let cool. Do this to all your wires.


Next, you will want to separate the parts to your connectors. There will be the male and female body, pin and socket connectors, and the grommets. The body of the connector will be labeled on one side “A” thru “F”.


The part where the letters are is where the assembled wires will be inserted. One side will actually be inverted when you plug the 2 connectors together at the end so that the letters will match up.

After you have tinned all the wires, slide a grommet onto the wire to a point about the middle of the wire.

Then get the pins and connectors together. Apply a small amount of flux to the inside of each connector’s barrel and slide a wire into the barrel.


When inserting your tinned wire into the connector keep the insulation a short distance from the barrel to keep it from melting from the heat. Add a small amount of solder to your iron and touch the connector to the iron. You should see some solder get sucked into the barrel.

Please: do not to put a big blob of solder on your iron as too much will obstruct the locking pins of the connector. It’s a pain to clean those out. If you do get some on the locking pins, use the solder extractor to remove it by heating up the solder and extract (suck off) the extra solder.


After the solder has cooled, crimp the bottom of the connector to the wire.

Do this for the other 9 wires.

All this soldering will give a good, long-lasting electrical connection between each side of the plugs.

Next separate the pins from the connectors as shown below.


Ensure that the connector bodies are the proper side up as you will be inserting the pins and connectors into the bodies starting at “A” and working to “E” on both sides.

Unlatch the strain clamp and bend it out of the way on both bodies.


Starting from “A” insert each wire in firmly until you hear a light ‘click’ of the locks snapping into place. Then slide the grommet down the wire and into the hole as far as it will go. It should end up flush with the back of the connector body.


You may need to use a small flathead to push it in completely.

Please Continue on Part-2 of this How-To
Part 2
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