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Perfessor
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Continued from Part-1
Part 1


Do this with the second half of the connector. You should end up with both looking like the below images.

Image-10



Image-11



Now, we don’t want any moisture getting into our nice new connector assembly, so grab that silicone sealant and fill up both “F” holes with it. Get it in as far down as you can without it coming out the other end.

Image-12



Next, bend back and latch the strain clamp on both connectors. The will keep the wire in place under a normal pull of the wires. Yes, normal. If you decide to use this as a tow rope, there’s no guarantee it will hold, LOL!

Now you can join the 2 sides together, but do not push them all the way together yet. You still need to solder them to the car harness and the headlight assembly. I took a bit of shrink tubing to use later to keep things neat.

As I mentioned before, once assembled, the pin letters on one side will be upside down. In the image below, you can see the letters on the left side of the connector, but the other is on the bottom so that “A” matches up with “A”.

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Since both of my headlight connectors were badly corroded, I did both of mine at the same time.

Both connectors are now finished and ready to install.

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Due to oncoming rain, I had to hurry through the last part of this, but I’ll explain the best I can without all the pic’s I’d wanted.

Select shrink tubing a bit larger than the biggest gauge wire you are using and cut 10 pieces (for one side of the car, 20 if doing both sides) about 1.5” in length. Also cut a 2” piece of tubing big enough to fit all the wires through (4 pieces for both sides, 2 for just one).

I did the car side first, and then the headlight side, but it’s the same at this point.

Slide all 5 wires through the 2” big pieces of shrink tubing and slide it up as far as you can to get it out of the way.

Slide a 1.5” piece over each wire as slide it up to the big piece for the same reason.

On the car’s light wires, strip back about ¾” of insulation and tin these wires the same way you did for your connector. Once done and cooled off, refer to your list and find the wire color you put down for “A” and find the “A” wire on your new connector.

Take these 2 wires and put the tinned ends in an X pattern and wrap them around each other with the wires opposite each other. You do not want to just twist them together as that is too bulky. You want more or less a straight line as this will give a stronger connection.

Once wrapped together, apply some flux and then solder them together ensuring good solder melt. After it cools off, slide the shrink tube for that wire overtop the connection and use a heat source (soldering iron, lighter, etc…) to shrink the tube. Keep the heat/flame moving as the tubing has a somewhat low burn point. You want to shrink it not burn it.

Do the same for the other 4 wires. It should look similar to the below image.

Image-15



Then slide the big piece of tubing up to cover the 5 smaller jobs you just finished (like below).

Image-16



And shrink that also. Next measure and cut a piece of the wire flex tubing that will go from the original (overlap the original about ½”), up to the connector and install that. Use some black electrical tape to tape the 2 pieces of flex tube together.

Image-17



Do this same thing for the other connector (or 3 if doing both lights).

Your finished jobs should look similar to this when you’re done each side.

Image-18



All that’s left is testing to make sure there are no errors.

Image-19

 

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awesome fix!
One question, my daughters 07 has had light problems a lot and usually the culprit is the car side connector that goes into the bulb socket will be melted. Did you solder directly to the light socket or did you solder to the car side connector that goes to the light socket?
I hope that makes sense

Thanks for the great post!
 
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