Not to beat a dead horse or uchavez, but without good info, it's guesswork to diagnose a top issue.
Visual failure, ie fluid leaking or chafed harness is one thing. Other than that, failure is related to any of the 12 or so sensors and switches that allow top operation.
Bulletin 07-08-67-10C explains the strategy, which simple put is: the FTC (Folding Top Control), looks for a specific sequence of switch events to take place. If interrupted or a switch not reading correctly, the FTC sets DTCs (trouble codes). The module then times out the pump and will not allow further operation.
Basically, the top is commanded and if in process there is a fault it logs it.
Problem is, most people don't have a reader that reads body codes.
UPDATE: Had to replace the driver side hydraulic. As I did previously, sent out a 'spare' ram to Top Hydraulics for rebuild. $200 and money well spent. Replacing the passenger side last year was a real learning experience. I replaced this one in under 2 hours!!
Install Tip: Make sure the top is securely propped in the "service position" where the front retaining pin of the hydraulic clears the hinge assembly otherwise you won't be able to slide the pin out. (see pictures). Also, it's necessary to remove the seat belt cover in order to gain access to the front of the hydraulic.
Hope this is helpfull to those needing to tackle this hydraulic ram replacement task.