[JLondon]

uchavez, not sure these docs will help, but, I've attached the related repair and TSB for the retractable hardtop. At a minimum, they're informative on how the top works!!

 

[davez26]

Not to beat a dead horse or uchavez, but without good info, it's guesswork to diagnose a top issue.
Visual failure, ie fluid leaking or chafed harness is one thing. Other than that, failure is related to any of the 12 or so sensors and switches that allow top operation.
Bulletin 07-08-67-10C explains the strategy, which simple put is: the FTC (Folding Top Control), looks for a specific sequence of switch events to take place. If interrupted or a switch not reading correctly, the FTC sets DTCs (trouble codes). The module then times out the pump and will not allow further operation.
Basically, the top is commanded and if in process there is a fault it logs it.
Problem is, most people don't have a reader that reads body codes.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[JLondon]

UPDATE: Had to replace the driver side hydraulic. As I did previously, sent out a 'spare' ram to Top Hydraulics for rebuild. $200 and money well spent. Replacing the passenger side last year was a real learning experience. I replaced this one in under 2 hours!!

Install Tip: Make sure the top is securely propped in the "service position" where the front retaining pin of the hydraulic clears the hinge assembly otherwise you won't be able to slide the pin out. (see pictures). Also, it's necessary to remove the seat belt cover in order to gain access to the front of the hydraulic.

Hope this is helpfull to those needing to tackle this hydraulic ram replacement task.

 

[dxG6]

JL, I understand the service strap loop. But what is the function of the white string in the picture?

 

[JLondon]

JL, I understand the service strap loop. But what is the function of the white string in the picture?

The white rope is MY "service strap", with the excess rope just hanging down...LOL ;-)

 

[dxG6]

Sorry, it looked to me like you used the factory yellow service strap and the white rope was a separate piece. Looking closer I see it's all one piece.

 

[Barnes]

My convertible top developed a leak in the drivers side hydraulic ram that physically moves the top. Thanks to a post by @zenish I found the joys of Pick Your Part and found a convertible about an hours drive from me. Having no idea if any parts were left I was pleased to find a number of the rams were still in the junked car, including the much needed replacement. Returning home I used some of what I learnt removing the parts to replace the leaking unit.

First I removed the trim covering the hydraulic pump so I had easy access and used a paperclip to short the pins in the sensor for the trunk cover. I topped off the hydraulic fluid with Pentosin CHF 11S (Available at AutoZone). I still had enough functionality to get the trunk to reverse cam to give me easier access to the rear of the rams that move the top. If you have limited functionality you may need to remove the hex grub screw that holds the rear hinge pin in place. With the assistance of 2 helpers, one to press the button and two of us to support and move the top I lowered the top so I could easily remove the drivers side rear trim that covers the drivers seat belt to the runner split that allows the top hinge to move. This gives you access to the front of the ram. At this point I returned the top to the closed position whilst leaving the reverse cam trunk open. Removing the rear hinge pin is now quite easy. There is s spring clip that secures the hinge pin at the front of the ram, it is a bit fiddly but I managed to get it off. Reaching from the rear of the roof along the side of the ram I was able to reach in and remove the front hinge pin. The hydraulic ram can now be removed into the trunk being careful of the hydraulic lines. The lines have a zip tie that needs to be removed and sliding retention clips than needs to be slid clear to remove the lines. Mine pulled out easily once the clips were fully clear.

Replacing the salvaged ram was a reverse of the above. I added a little white lithium grease to the pins and re-zip tied the hydraulic line. Loosened the relief valve on the hydraulic pump (no idea if this was needed but felt it might help if I had to extend or retract the ram to make it fit - was not a problem in the end). Once the hydraulic ram, pins, spring clip and grub screws were all in place I started to manoeuvre the top. It only wanted to go in the closed direction at first and took several attempts to pump fluid before anything happened (I also forgot to close the relief valve for the first few attempts, so don't forget this). After that everything returned to normal. Just had to top of the fluid again to cover for the original leak and fill the salvaged ram.

Hope none of you need to do this, but if you do I hope it helps. It sure is nice to have the top down again and know it will go back up!

UPDATE: Had to replace the driver side hydraulic. As I did previously, sent out a 'spare' ram to Top Hydraulics for rebuild. $200 and money well spent. Replacing the passenger side last year was a real learning experience. I replaced this one in under 2 hours!!

Install Tip: Make sure the top is securely propped in the "service position" where the front retaining pin of the hydraulic clears the hinge assembly otherwise you won't be able to slide the pin out. (see pictures). Also, it's necessary to remove the seat belt cover in order to gain access to the front of the hydraulic.

Hope this is helpfull to those needing to tackle this hydraulic ram replacement task.

 

[Barnes]

UPDATE: Had to replace the driver side hydraulic. As I did previously, sent out a 'spare' ram to Top Hydraulics for rebuild. $200 and money well spent. Replacing the passenger side last year was a real learning experience. I replaced this one in under 2 hours!!

Install Tip: Make sure the top is securely propped in the "service position" where the front retaining pin of the hydraulic clears the hinge assembly otherwise you won't be able to slide the pin out. (see pictures). Also, it's necessary to remove the seat belt cover in order to gain access to the front of the hydraulic.

Hope this is helpfull to those needing to tackle this hydraulic ram replacement task.

My top is up completely and the right side ram failed leaking fluid. Would my steps be to remove the pump trim, fill the reservoir, activate the top open switch and help the top to the "service position", tie the top up, remove the rear pin, remove the front pin, remove the hyd. hoses, reattach new hoses to new ram, reinstall new ram, make sure hydraulic fluid is full, untie top, attempt to open/close? Is unit self bleeding? Feeling very bummed out, we just bought the car for my daughters 16th birthday yesterday. Tried to put the top down today and disaster! Thanks in advance.

 

[JLondon]

My top is up completely and the right side ram failed leaking fluid. Would my steps be to remove the pump trim, fill the reservoir, activate the top open switch and help the top to the "service position", tie the top up, remove the rear pin, remove the front pin, remove the hyd. hoses, reattach new hoses to new ram, reinstall new ram, make sure hydraulic fluid is full, untie top, attempt to open/close? Is unit self bleeding? Feeling very bummed out, we just bought the car for my daughters 16th birthday yesterday. Tried to put the top down today and disaster! Thanks in advance.

You pretty much have the proper steps to follow. I'm assuming your reference to "right" side ram being passenger side?
1) Passenger side. Remove trunk trim pump cover.
2) Using a paper clip or jumper wire, jumper the switch used for the vinyl trunk cover.
3) Fill hydraulic pump reservoir (much will leak out the bad ram when trying to lower the top).
4) Activate the "top open" switch just enough so the front latch disengages.
5) With a helper, manually place the top to the "service position". FYI, I used a strong rope and tied it to the same locations as per the OEM service top strap accessory instructions.
6) Remove the selt belt guide cover trim piece. It snaps out fairly easily, but, have patience snapping it back in place with the rubber weatherstripping.
7) Looks like you have the rest of the steps!!! Go For It.

FYI, Boomer's instructions are also spot on!!! It'll all make sense once you start taking everything apart and seeing how it all works. Just be patient. Also, no bleeding this system. Just fill the hydraulic pump reservoir to the "max" line and test several times before putting the trunk trim piece back together.

Good luck....I sure hope your daughter appreciates this ;-) I had to puchase my own car(s), LOL.

 

[Barnes]

You pretty much have the proper steps to follow. I'm assuming your reference to "right" side ram being passenger side?
1) Passenger side. Remove trunk trim pump cover.
2) Using a paper clip or jumper wire, jumper the switch used for the vinyl trunk cover.
3) Fill hydraulic pump reservoir (much will leak out the bad ram when trying to lower the top).
4) Activate the "top open" switch just enough so the front latch disengages.
5) With a helper, manually place the top to the "service position". FYI, I used a strong rope and tied it to the same locations as per the OEM service top strap accessory instructions.
6) Remove the selt belt guide cover trim piece. It snaps out fairly easily, but, have patience snapping it back in place with the rubber weatherstripping.
7) Looks like you have the rest of the steps!!! Go For It.

FYI, Boomer's instructions are also spot on!!! It'll all make sense once you start taking everything apart and seeing how it all works. Just be patient. Also, no bleeding this system. Just fill the hydraulic pump reservoir to the "max" line and test several times before putting the trunk trim piece back together.

Good luck....I sure hope your daughter appreciates this ;-) I had to puchase my own car(s), LOL.

Thank you much! She definitely does! She will be helping me do this as well as changing the oil & trans fluid. It almost looks like I will be able to get the ram off with the top up? Is that possible? I will give it a shot the next nice day we have here in PA. If not we will attempt to get it into "service position". Anyway, planning on sending the ram off to Top Hydraulic for a rebuild. Is it OK to leave the top in service position for a few days while the ram is being rebuilt? Thanks again for your help and wisdom!

 

[JLondon]

Thank you much! She definitely does! She will be helping me do this as well as changing the oil & trans fluid. It almost looks like I will be able to get the ram off with the top up? Is that possible? I will give it a shot the next nice day we have here in PA. If not we will attempt to get it into "service position". Anyway, planning on sending the ram off to Top Hydraulic for a rebuild. Is it OK to leave the top in service position for a few days while the ram is being rebuilt? Thanks again for your help and wisdom!

Glad I could help. Not sure the front or rear pin will be accessible with the top up...I don't think so. Once you take the seat belt guide trim piece off you'll see exactly the position of how and where the hydraulic and pins are situated, hence, the need for the top to be in the "service position". Top Hydraulic usually turns the rebuild around in 2-3 days. I wouldn't leave the top in the "service position" for a couple of days as it is quite heavy and would be a safety hazard. With the assistance of your helper (daughter), you just need to lift, balance and stabilize the top while you secure it (with a strap or rope) in the "service position". "Service Position" for the convertible top...

 

[OldNorthDevil]

Thanks for all the information on here...I also lost a hydraulic ram last week (it seems like all the G6s are getting to that age) and this thread has been invaluable in getting my top up and secure.

Is it possible to secure the top after I remove the cylinders (so that I can continue to drive with the top up) or should I wait to remove my cylinders until I can leave the car indoors for a few days while the cylinders are rebuilt?

Glad I could help. Not sure the front or rear pin will be accessible with the top up...I don't think so. Once you take the seat belt guide trim piece off you'll see exactly the position of how and where the hydraulic and pins are situated, hence, the need for the top to be in the "service position". Top Hydraulic usually turns the rebuild around in 2-3 days. I wouldn't leave the top in the "service position" for a couple of days as it is quite heavy and would be a safety hazard. With the assistance of your helper (daughter), you just need to lift, balance and stabilize the top while you secure it (with a strap or rope) in the "service position". "Service Position" for the convertible top...

 

[JLondon]

Thanks for all the information on here...I also lost a hydraulic ram last week (it seems like all the G6s are getting to that age) and this thread has been invaluable in getting my top up and secure.

Is it possible to secure the top after I remove the cylinders (so that I can continue to drive with the top up) or should I wait to remove my cylinders until I can leave the car indoors for a few days while the cylinders are rebuilt?

Keeping in mind that, without the hydraulics, the top is heavy!! With that being said, yes, you should be able to manually put the top in the up and secure position (I suggest a helper). You'll need to pop off the plastic cap in the center of the windshield that covers the manual control nut that opens/closes the latches at the top of the windshield. You'll need a Hex/Allen key set to turn the nut...I don't remember what size it is. It's fairly tight to turn and secure the top, but if you really need to use the car while your rams are being rebuilt, I suppose it should work. FWIW, I suggest having both rebuilt at the same time. I learned the hard way and only had the passenger side rebuilt at first, only to have the driver's side fail about 6 months later.

 

[Barnes]

Glad I could help. Not sure the front or rear pin will be accessible with the top up...I don't think so. Once you take the seat belt guide trim piece off you'll see exactly the position of how and where the hydraulic and pins are situated, hence, the need for the top to be in the "service position". Top Hydraulic usually turns the rebuild around in 2-3 days. I wouldn't leave the top in the "service position" for a couple of days as it is quite heavy and would be a safety hazard. With the assistance of your helper (daughter), you just need to lift, balance and stabilize the top while you secure it (with a strap or rope) in the "service position". "Service Position" for the convertible top...

Had to have her hit the open button and lift up on the top simultaneously to get it up into service position. You are right, it is heavy. We used small straps/tie downs to keep the top up in the service position. Removed the rear seat side trim and we were able to get the pins out and ram changed out! Her top works now and she is happy! Praise God! Honestly, if it wasn't for her encouraging me to really lift the top once it was unlatched I wouldn't have gotten it done. I was afraid to push up too hard, didn't want to break something. Thanks again everyone for your help!

 

[JLondon]

Had to have her hit the open button and lift up on the top simultaneously to get it up into service position. You are right, it is heavy. We used small straps/tie downs to keep the top up in the service position. Removed the rear seat side trim and we were able to get the pins out and ram changed out! Her top works now and she is happy! Praise God! Honestly, if it wasn't for her encouraging me to really lift the top once it was unlatched I wouldn't have gotten it done. I was afraid to push up too hard, didn't want to break something. Thanks again everyone for your help!

Glad you were successful in replacing the rams and getting it working again. In addition to having a functional convertible top, there's great satisfaction in fixing it yourself...and bonding (maybe some cursing, too) with your daughter