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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so I installed 2 powered subs in the trunk, they fit nicely under the partition for the convertible top. I took all of the trunk pieces out to run wiring....etc. when I put it all back in I tried to run the top to make sure everything worked okay. Well things just went downhill after this. I pressed the button, the trunk lid opened backwards then stopped... Then nothing... I got "trunk inop" "top can't open-trunk" and "top not secure". This was a first... To preface, I was up til after midnight the night before finishing up the install the secret when I realized my line output converter was not broadcasting on the right speaker channel should I just do everything in the trunk and call it a night so at this point I just got to work put the right line output converter in it and got it functioning and then put all the panels back in so this happened while I was at work. I mean I checked everything every sensor look normal nothing look at a place but then I noticed on the passenger side on the bottom hinge the plastic panel that I installed was pinched underneath that hinge pretty tight. It took some pulling but I was able to get it out from under the hinge and I thought well now the cops should work okay if they ain't lookin damage just the plastic piece was stuck under it and you could tell it been struggling to work but I guess with the plastic piece under it stopped. Not sure where to go from here I check the fuses in the trunk and they were okay. I just know that there's no sound being made when I press the button just to hear messages and the trunk at this point is stuck backwards open and will not move so I put a bungee cord on the trunk lid so we can have a little bit of pressure pulling it down and it took almost three hours for it to slowly bleed down enough to get the trunk lid shot but of course it won't latch won't do anything because of the error messages so I put some packaging tape on the trunk lid and drove it home and it was going to rain and I didn't want to take the chance of getting in there and checking fuses and all that and getting the trunk backwards open again and have to wait another two or three hours for it to shut if I couldn't find the problem any help would be great I would really really appreciate it thanks. Is there a way to reset the convertible top system I know my friend has a Saab 9-3 convertible and there's a procedure to reset the system where it will play back to the nominal settings from the factory thanks again
 

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i really would not have a clue where to start. i know you guys love your music but i lose interest real fast when it impacts on all the oem car equipment.
 

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have you double checked the switch that senses the pull out trunk cover is connected and working? There is a connector for it and one for the trunk light behind the passenger side plastic panel (the one that covers the hydraulic pump).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Boomer, yes, I unplugged it on disassembly but did plug it back in after. I've gotten that message when it's not engaged but it's not giving that error. It would have given that error when I initialized stowing the top. When I tried to engage stowing the windows went down, trunk reverse locks disengaged then trunk lid went back, stopped, then gave trunk warnings and wouldn't continue. It was then that I discovered the passenger side cover in the trunk was hung under the forward hinge. I got it out but now no pump action and 3 trunk lid errors. Do you know any way to reset the top or anything? I think that plastic corner put a bind on it enough for it to halt operation. Idk
 

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My top stopped working at one point and it ended up being a broken wire in the passenger side wiring harness next to the right hinge. I could see where it was broken. Replaced the whole harness because the dealer was still carrying the part. Splicing it would of course also work. Hope it’s something simple like that.
 

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I can only think of a couple of things. Removing and reconnecting power to reset the modules (disconnect the negative on the battery for a few minutes). Once the pump has depressurized you may be able to move the trunk lid by hand. If you move it to another position like almost closed you might send different signals to the folding top module. if it always stops in the same position I would continue to look for sensor / wiring issues. A more advanced scan tool would help with the diagnosis. It may be worth checking with a local mechanic to see how much they would charge to diagnose it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My top stopped working at one point and it ended up being a broken wire in the passenger side wiring harness next to the right hinge. I could see where it was broken. Replaced the whole harness because the dealer was still carrying the part. Splicing it would of course also work. Hope it’s something simple like that.
I'm thinking the same thing....been raining since this happened, as soon as I get a clear day I'ma check the wiring. Thank you!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I can only think of a couple of things. Removing and reconnecting power to reset the modules (disconnect the negative on the battery for a few minutes). Once the pump has depressurized you may be able to move the trunk lid by hand. If you move it to another position like almost closed you might send different signals to the folding top module. if it always stops in the same position I would continue to look for sensor / wiring issues. A more advanced scan tool would help with the diagnosis. It may be worth checking with a local mechanic to see how much they would charge to diagnose it.
Thanks Boomer yeah I got the top actually the trunk lid down but no go on latching or anything so there's been a tarp on it for the last few days it's been raining I'm going to check all the wiring as soon as I get a clear day thanks a lot buddy
 

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It was then that I discovered the passenger side cover in the trunk was hung under the forward hinge. I got it out but now no pump action and 3 trunk lid errors. Do you know any way to reset the top or anything?
Wait, this says you have 3 trunk lid errors.
Do you mean codes?
If you have the codes, you can use the top bulletin to determine which sensors have issue, and track from there.
The top won't work with errors.


Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry I don't have actual codes like numeric codes but I meant that three different trunk warnings came out and wouldn't allow the top to go any further I was able to disconnect the battery and slowly get the trunk lid down it took almost three hours that's okay though when I first got the car both the main lift ramps are leaking like crazy and since I replace those I have no leaks and systems tight so that's a good thing I drove the Saab to work today but when I get off I'm going to delve into the trunk a little bit and see what I can see and I will let you know what the exact error messages are when I try to stay the top I appreciate you reply
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay, went on the great broken wire search in the trunk, no luck. I'm attaching pics of the errors on the radio screen. I've checked the fuses and swapped out the relays with no luck. I'm afraid I'm going to have to take it to someone with a scanner to pinpoint this issue. No sounds....nothing but trunk error messages. Can't lock down the trunk lid so can't drive it either.
 

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The "Trunk Ajar" seems like an odd message. Sounds like the module thinks the trunk is open (normal get stuff in and out open, not the reverse open to stow the top). Perhaps take a closer look at the cabling / sensor for the trunk latch. Just a guess mind you. As the trunk lid would probably fall off if it were truly open on both ends this would likely stop it from attempting to move.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think you're into something Boomer.... I noticed that if the front latches were actually able to latch the rear of the trunk seems like it's not fully latched. I have noticed when closing the trunk when the top is up it takes a considerable amount of force to shut it. And when it's shut the clearance between the trunk lid and the bumper cover is very small, like you can't get a finger under the lid when it's closed. That being said, perhaps the latch caught just enough to close the trunk but the action of reverse opening the trunk had enough force to unlatch it , not completely though. When it went back to stow the top it may have moved enough to trip the sensor, thus halting everything. You are the man Boomer!!! Not sure where to proceed....should I completely disassemble the trunk lid and rear latch or just jump the sensor wires to get it forward shut? I'm thinking if I can get it to secure I can then open the trunk the regular way.
 

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If it were me I would see if I could adjust or temporarily defeat the sensor to get the top in a secure position and work on it from there (repair / replace). I noticed this Technical Bulletin that indicates the problem could be mechanical rather than electrical. This would also indicate that the trunk ajar sensor is part of the latch mechanism which may help you locate the correct wires. The striker is located differently on the convertible, but it may help you see if there is any practical adjustment available to you.

TECHNICAL

Bulletin No.: 09-08-66-001

Date: March 13, 2009

Subject:
Trunk Ajar Displayed in DIC with Trunk Closed, Increased Rear Compartment Lid Closing Effort (Adjust Rear Compartment Latch And Lid)


Models:
2008-2009 Chevrolet Malibu
2007-2009 Pontiac G6
2007-2009 Saturn AURA


All Build Prior to June 2009

Condition

Some customers may comment that the "trunk ajar" message displays in the DIC with the rear compartment lid fully closed. The customer may also comment on increased closing effort.

Cause

This condition may be caused by the trunk ajar switch, incorporated inside the compartment latch assembly, not deactivating the trunk ajar display in the DIC. This switch has a specific operating range. If the rear compartment lid is out of alignment, the switch may be out of its operating range.

Correction

Important
Do not replace the rear compartment lid latch assembly for this condition.


Use the following procedure to diagnose and correct the condition.

1.Before diagnosing and adjusting, observe and document the fit and closing effort of the rear compartment lid.
2.Open the rear compartment lid and locate the latch assembly, located on the underside of the rear compartment lid.






3.Inspect the latch. If the latch shows wear on the left or right side of the receiver, use the following steps to adjust the body mounted latch striker, located on the rear body panel.

-Remove the rear compartment sill trim. Refer to Rear Compartment Sill Trim Plate Replacement in SI.






-Using a paint pen, mark the location of the striker.






-Loosen the latch striker bolts.
-If wear is observed on the left side of the latch, move the latch striker on the body to the right. If wear is observed on the right side of the latch, move the latch striker on the body to the left.






-Move the latch striker 2 mm (2/32 in) to the left or right as required.

Tighten
Tighten the latch striker bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb in).
-Reinstall the rear compartment sill trim. Refer to Rear Compartment Sill Trim Plate Replacement in SI.

4.With the rear compartment lid in the closed position, activate and observe the DIC and verify that the trunk ajar display is not illuminated.
5.If further adjustment or diagnosis is required, refer to Rear Compartment Lid Adjustment and Trunk Ajar Indicator Malfunction in SI.
6.Inspect the rear compartment lid for fit and closing effort. (Refer back to Step 1 of this procedure.)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Boomer, pretty sure this is my issue. I'm going to jumper it, there are 3 wires connected to the sensor, 2 red and 1 blue, do you know which ones I need to jumper?
 

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The schematic I see indicates an orange / black wire as the trunk ajar switch signal. The trunk release looks to be Tan/White and a black ground wire

17952
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay Boomer, thanks for hanging in there for me, I really appreciate it. So got home and while I was looking for the latch sensor and the trunk lid basically fell off. I caught it before it fell and carefully removed the wiring harness and the 2 10mm nuts that attaches to the arm and laid the trunk lid down. I couldn't see in the cramped hole so I removed the trunk latch from the trunk lid. It was dirty and sticking. I cleaned it up and sprayed it heavily with some silicone lubricant. I worked the latch over and over and made sure it was working smoothly. I reattached it to the trunk lid then lubricated all the moving parts of the rearward swivel attachment then latched the trunk lid and reconnected all the connectors. When I tried to operate the top it just said "top not secure". BUT... Zero trunk errors and still no noise of anything trying to work. No pump, no latches....nothing. so I am now waiting for the trunk lid to lower and leaving the battery disconnected hoping after I send you this update it will magically work. Not real hopeful at this point. I am getting to that frustration point.
 
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