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had a clunking about a year ago shortly after having a flat and buying 4 new tires, turned out to be the tire shop put the spare in wrong. this time when a similar noise came around, the first thing i did was take the spare out and took it for a ride, still had clunk, figured I would at least get it aligned since I just installed struts and the tie rods, alignment guy also noticed a bad front ball joint (i thought it might be questionable but didn't want to fork out the dough when doing the tie rods and struts) and the sway bar bushing in rear was bad and had slop along with the link being worn, gm parts direct has the whole kit and kaboodle for $70.78, everywhere else i've looked just have the link for 50-60 and the bushing for around 10,I like to go oem when i can unless it's a cheaper and proven upgrade (made it 140,000 on oem). anyone know of a cheaper proven upgrade?
 

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Wow thank you so much man, I really appreciate your time and effort!!!! Thanks!!!

Now i should just put my hand on it and shake it to see if its loose right?
Well it probably won't be that loose. Check along that bar for worn or cracked bushings. You'll probably need a pry bar to move the bar a little to see if there is play. This maybe a stupid question but since nobody can find anything clunking in the back....did you look where the spare tire goes? Is there something in there clunking around?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well it probably won't be that loose. Check along that bar for worn or cracked bushings. You'll probably need a pry bar to move the bar a little to see if there is play. This maybe a stupid question but since nobody can find anything clunking in the back....did you look where the spare tire goes? Is there something in there clunking around?
Ya I did check the area where the spare tire is. Everything is screwed tightly!!
 

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I had an extremely similar issue on mine, it happened to be the that the jack and wrench for the spare were not put in right and clunking around in the back. I know you said you checked already but you may want to take the spare and tools out of the trunk and drive around and see if the sound is gone after that.
 

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I have the same problem, it sounds REALLY bad. Makes the car sound so unstable. I had a front clunk, but turned out it went away when I installed my eibachs and new struts/mounts. As for the back, my mechanic told me it was the bushing inside the shock where it mounts, so I went ahead and replaced the shocks; still there. Ill have to check out the rear sway, but I'm in the same boat you are! It sucks!s
 

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It has to be something in the suspension. Bushings, links, sway bar, maybe your fuel tank is lose, try and check for that. Are your tires aligned? maybe your need an alignment in general. Could be a couple of things. My mothers acura tl had a rear knocking sound and it was coming from the tire, we didn't know til one day it just exploded on the e-way and after replacing it and getting the wheel aligned, the knocking sounds went away.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
It has to be something in the suspension. Bushings, links, sway bar, maybe your fuel tank is lose, try and check for that. Are your tires aligned? maybe your need an alignment in general. Could be a couple of things. My mothers acura tl had a rear knocking sound and it was coming from the tire, we didn't know til one day it just exploded on the e-way and after replacing it and getting the wheel aligned, the knocking sounds went away.
Just came back from my mechanic and he said its my rear sway bar bushings that need to be replaced!!!!

Luckily for me its only 9$ per bushing lol
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Just came back from my mechanic and he said its my rear sway bar bushings that need to be replaced!!!!

Luckily for me its only 9$ per bushing lol

This is not going well....

I went to my garage to pick up my car and the mechanic said he didn't change the bushings.

When I asked him why, he basically explained that in order to change those bushings, he needs to remove the sway bar. The bolts used to tighten the sway bar to the car is bolted. He would have to use a torch in order to heat the bolts enough in order to remove it.

He said there was a 50% chance that he heats the bolts and they come off perfectly and there is a 50% chance that as he heats them, he breaks half the bolt in the socket.

If the bolt would break, it would take 4-5 hours to try to remove that broken bolt and if ever he wouldn't be able to, he would have to drill more holes...

Is it possible that it's that complicated to change two 9$ parts???????
 

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I'm glad I stumbled upon this thread. By the sounds of things, rear sway bar bushings is whats wrong with my car too.
 

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This is not going well....

I went to my garage to pick up my car and the mechanic said he didn't change the bushings.

When I asked him why, he basically explained that in order to change those bushings, he needs to remove the sway bar. The bolts used to tighten the sway bar to the car is bolted. He would have to use a torch in order to heat the bolts enough in order to remove it.

He said there was a 50% chance that he heats the bolts and they come off perfectly and there is a 50% chance that as he heats them, he breaks half the bolt in the socket.

If the bolt would break, it would take 4-5 hours to try to remove that broken bolt and if ever he wouldn't be able to, he would have to drill more holes...

Is it possible that it's that complicated to change two 9$ parts???????
Pretty sure my son's car has this same problem. In the spirit of half-assing it and confirming the diagnosis, I wonder if you can pound some shims into that bushing gap? Something plastic and maybe flexible enough to wrap around the sway bar. Even a piece of wood might confirm the problem, but obviously won't last. Just something to take up the slack. Then at least you know if the problem will be fixed before the investment.
 

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One other thing to check, because no one has mentioned it, check the hanger brackets on the exhaust system. You could just have a loose muffler.:unsure:
 
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