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Discussion Starter #1
Nuptup here with a problem...

So, I finally got my big issue fixed with the Driver side window of my '06 GTP Convertible, then fixed my leaking Power steering pump, and now I have noticed that I am putting a LOT of coolant into the car. When I got it back from detail to look for my leak and found the power steering leak, I also noticed it was not at a good level of coolant. So, I put nearly a half-gallon into it to bring it up to the cold fill line (It was really low...). I fixed the power steering leak, then took the car for a test drive. It seemed like it drove fine, so I parked it and called it good.

The next day, I was going out with some friends to take some photos of our cars, and before leaving I checked the engine bay for leaks just to make doubly-sure that my power steering was fixed, and it was, so I was about to close and get ready to go. But then i glanced at the coolant reservoir and it was well below the cold fill line again. So I put even more into it, this time going about an inch over the cold-fill line and taking the bottle with me because I would be out for a much longer time than the previous test drive. I drove it all day and then parked it at home last night.

I checked it before heading to work today and it was back down to just below the cold fill line. I was in a rush, so I didn't fill it back up and am going to check it again tonight before leaving work. (at work currently), but I am just tossing this out there to any of you guys for advice or suggestions on where to look for a leak or if it's burning coolant or anything like that. I feel like in the past 4 days I have had to put entirely too much coolant into it, and I am not seeing a leak anywhere under the car. Like, no puddle or anything. I am stumped and really don't know what to do.

Any advice before I take it somewhere to get looked at would be great!
 

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2007 gt retractable
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mine is leaking on the fitting on the heater hose directly under the tank.its either leaking on the ground or you have a blown head gasket or cracked head.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So, as a minor update, I drove it to work last night and it ran fine the whole drive, I parked it and went inside, expecting that I might have to put some coolant into it when I get off work. Anyway, I went outside to the car after work and saw a note on my door that pretty much said "Yo, all your coolant is on the ground, good luck." and lo-and-behold, all my coolant was on the ground. I'm hoping it's not a head gasket and is instead just the water pump as some people have said. But, it's currently at the show and they'll be looking into it tomorrow morning to tell me what it is that busted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Another update, the shop did a test for me and found that the "Water cross-over gasket(s) between the heads" blew out and needs to be replaced. Can anyone give me any kind of advice on how big of a task that will be? The shop wants more than I would rather pay, so I am trying to find out what I'd be getting into to tackle it myself.
 

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I'm sorry and I don't mean to dump on your shop .... but, did you check all your coolant hoses ?? Including the heater hoses. The vast majority of leaking coolant cases are hose leaks rather than water pump or engine gasket leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm sorry and I don't mean to dump on your shop .... but, did you check all your coolant hoses ?? Including the heater hoses. The vast majority of leaking coolant cases are hose leaks rather than water pump or engine gasket leaks.
According to what I was told, they did a coolant system pressure test to find the leak. I can't imagine that it'd be very easy to make a mistake when looking for it that way.
 

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2007 G6 'vert
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I've done the coolant crossover gaskets. The first time they can be a bear. Almost everything comes off the passenger side of the motor.
Alternator, pulleys, hoses (heater, coolant vent pipe at the top), the whole motor mount, airbox, air intake tube all have to be removed. All the tools are common (a factory hose clamp tool helps a lot) as well as some open ends and some deep sockets for the rear bolts near the alternator. Some bolts go into the back of the engine and hold the alternator on.
If you are good with taking motors apart it's a 4 hour job with about $60 in gaskets and some antifreeze. Also a good time to change the water pump if you have not yet done so, it will be easy to see and access.
If you have specific questions let me know.
The first time the gaskets went bad the dealership changed them under warrantee. A year later the warrantee is up and they leak again. Find out after I am about to remove the crossover tube that the dealership forgot to tighten the bolts, they were all finger tight and that caused leak #2... Just one of many bad dealership stories.. unfortunately.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've done the coolant crossover gaskets. The first time they can be a bear. Almost everything comes off the passenger side of the motor.
Alternator, pulleys, hoses (heater, coolant vent pipe at the top), the whole motor mount, airbox, air intake tube all have to be removed. All the tools are common (a factory hose clamp tool helps a lot) as well as some open ends and some deep sockets for the rear bolts near the alternator. Some bolts go into the back of the engine and hold the alternator on.
If you are good with taking motors apart it's a 4 hour job with about $60 in gaskets and some antifreeze. Also a good time to change the water pump if you have not yet done so, it will be easy to see and access.
If you have specific questions let me know.
The first time the gaskets went bad the dealership changed them under warrantee. A year later the warrantee is up and they leak again. Find out after I am about to remove the crossover tube that the dealership forgot to tighten the bolts, they were all finger tight and that caused leak #2... Just one of many bad dealership stories.. unfortunately.
So, I personally am still an automotive novice, but I am learning with each problem while my more experienced friend has been helping me with everything. I am debating on leaving something like this up to the shop though because it seems like a whole lot of work and i really don't want to mess something up. However.., I also really don't want to pay around 400-600 in shop labor, and paying retail+mark-up for parts. So, I might just tough it out and learn the gruelling way what makes it so hard.

Unfortunately that's a very common place for a coolant leak. What engine do you have in that GTP?
It has the 3.9l v6. And, honestly, that really sucks that it's common. But, I figure I may as well try and learn it eventually. Otherwise anytime it repeats itself, I have to shell out the dough again. However, it is pretty nice that the shop offers a 2-year/24k warranty on parts and labor. But, still, that's a lot of money...
 

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I, also don't mean to dump on your garage/mechanic, but......????? I had this problem also, and it wound up being the plastic "TEE" right under the resevoir. It was cracked, but you couldn't see it because the crack was actually inside the hose. Just don't want you to spend unnecessary $$$$$ for a $10.00 plastic TEE.
 

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2007 G6 'vert
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This might be a good repair for you to learn on, all of the parts you will be working with are pretty hefty and you are not likely to break anything accidentally. The only part that has a critical torque is the crossover tube which is more like an aluminum engine accessory bracket with a water tube in it.
Buy the Felpro replacement gaskets, I've had better luck with them vs the stock Victor Reinz gaskets.
One of the harder parts is getting the 10+ year old hoses off the crossover tube assembly, go on amazon and buy a factory hose clamp tool and what's called a "hose pick", it will save you from damaging the heater hoses and a lot of time/scraped knuckles.
Also you can leave the heater hoses on, pull the cover an inch away from the block, pop the old gaskets off (they have an aluminum "frame") and slip the new ones in and hold them in place with 2 bolts. The gaskets have little "tabs" that stick out past the crossover tube so you can align them. This will make ZERO sense until you get there and see it. I did this the first time I changed them. Second time was when I did the intake gaskets and the crossover tube had to come out anyway...
 

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2007 G6 GT Convertible (3.5L)
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Good tips in here for replacing the crossover manifold gaskets. Only one I have to add is - make sure you're using a torque wrench for the fasteners. Without one, it is easy to crack the aluminum manifold. Also ensures that you get even distribution across the gaskets, and prevents premature failure. Also very important to ensure that your gasket surfaces are clean and dry. This will make for a much better seal.

Another tip - you will need to remove the water pipe that runs along the front of the engine to the coolant manifold. There is an o-ring seal in there that can tend to leak. I would replace that o-ring while you have it apart. Part number is 98553MP (AC Delco).

It's honestly not a bad job. Take your time and do it right. If you like, I can post the Alldata procedure here for you. Just let me know!

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's honestly not a bad job. Take your time and do it right. If you like, I can post the Alldata procedure here for you. Just let me know!
Yeah, I kind of decided to take it up a level. I've decided to do this, the water pump, the thermostat and the radiator upper and lower hoses all while i'm in there. I have the alldata sheets as well since a friend works with them daily and shared a log in with me. Anyhow, I want to say thanks to everyone who replied. I genuinely appreciate all of the helpful advice and want to thank you all!
 

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Exactly what I would do. Hate the thought that I would be that deep in there and not change everything that needed it. Wait until you see how long the top radiator hose is, I think it's the longest I have ever seen and it even has a hangar support in the middle... Good luck, post if you have questions.
Yeah, I kind of decided to take it up a level. I've decided to do this, the water pump, the thermostat and the radiator upper and lower hoses all while i'm in there. I have the alldata sheets as well since a friend works with them daily and shared a log in with me. Anyhow, I want to say thanks to everyone who replied. I genuinely appreciate all of the helpful advice and want to thank you all!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hate the thought that I would be that deep in there and not change everything that needed it.
This exactly. I didn't want to pay the redonkulous price the shop wanted when I can just learn the repair myself and hit all of the other wear parts at the same time as well. And, for half the price the shop wanted, I was able to get all of that as well as every suspension front end wear part. So, the next couple weekends are gonna be busy a.f. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wait until you see how long the top radiator hose is, I think it's the longest I have ever seen
So, I'm in the middle of this repair and I can't seem to get the radiator hose to come free. There's no way way too get to them. Does the front clip or headlight need to come out to get at them? All of my hose clamps are facing the complete most difficult direction possible.
 

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2007 G6 GT Convertible (3.5L)
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I called advance Auto and they say this party number is a black acdelco pig tail. Any idea what the correct one is out of they're just wrong?
That's interesting. I work at Advance part time, and the number doesn't even come up in our system...lol. Not sure where they got the pigtail from.

If you Google the number, it comes up as the o-ring.

There are a few outlets that offer them. I think they're on eBay too.

Mike
 

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So, I'm in the middle of this repair and I can't seem to get the radiator hose to come free. There's no way way too get to them. Does the front clip or headlight need to come out to get at them? All of my hose clamps are facing the complete most difficult direction possible.
I came to this party late, but working forward of the engine, I usually pull the headlamps to give myself extra room.
Two screws each @ top, remove 6 bumper cover retainers, pull forward, and use something soft to pry @ back.
They aren't that bad to pull once you figure out the wiggle procedure, it will give you access, and don't be surprised if the post at the back breaks, not a biggie.
Also, if you are going to be replacing hose and clamps anyway, an option would be to use a Dremel and cut the clamps.


Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If you Google the number, it comes up as the o-ring.
Yeah..., I didn't want to wait for it to arrive, so we went to napa and found a "close-enough" replacement :p. Let's hope that doesn't fail soon :D

replacing hose and clamps anyway
And I also didn't think to order them when ordering the hoses, and they seemed plenty tight, so I reused the old one. But yeah, we ended up taking the headlights out and that helped. Thanks a bunch!
 
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