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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here’s where I phone a friend/family member. I had to pull out the multimeter and test each socket to see if power is getting to the light unit. Since I don’t know the specific voltage each light unit is supposed to get, I mirrored/matched each voltage from the passenger side against the driver side. Here is an image/paint I’d sketched together for ya’ll. I am not an electrician and I hate testing wires. Also, here is a wire color to letter diagram (your colors may vary).
Passenger Light Wire Harness
A-BLACK
B-TAN w/white stripe
C-GREEN w/white stripe
D-BLUE w/white stripe
E-PURPLE

Driver Light Wire Harness
A-BLACK
B-YELLOW
C-GREEN
D- BLUE w/white stripe
E-PURPLE
With both light units/assemblies removed (driver and passenger side), I turned on the lights, and tested each male pigtail on the passenger side, and then tested the driver side, and wrote down my results for each wire. Boom. Found the bad wire, and wouldn’t you know, it’s the same exact wire that delivers power to my driver side low beam. Now that I know this, I would have to trace that wire back to the fuse box and look at it. but that requires removing the fuse box and pulling out other things that I did not want to do. The last thing I need, is to cause more damage to wires.
But wait. What if the wire isn’t the problem? Maybe it’s the actual male pigtail connector. This would mean, I would have to remove the pigtail head connector, and replace it. (there another forum I read here that a gentleman does a really nice description on how to replace it, but that required soldering. Not looking to spend money on equipment and, as mentioned, I didn’t have that time).
Maybe it’s not the connector. Now I had to test that (yellow) wire to see if power is getting to that pigtail connector. I have some wire strippers and I peeled away a little bit of the insulator to expose wire. With the multimeter I measured the voltage (with the lights on) and still not voltage. CONFIRMED. POWER IS NOT GETTING TO MY LIGHT AND WIRE IS BAD, but the connector is still good.
Here is what we’ve all been waiting for. Well what the heck did you do? I basically spliced into the power supply from the passenger light. Meaning, that I cut the (tan) low beam wire to the passenger side and added the driver low beam wire (yellow). With a wire cutter and 22-16 gage heat shrink slice connectors (wal-mart) I GOT MY LIGHT TO WORK!!
Sadly, this is only a temporary fix, and this doesn’t resolve my real underlying issue. When I come around to it, I’ll post a follow up once I have more time on my hands or if this temporary fix fails.
 

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Registered
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
local auto stores don't sell the wire harness and ensure that it is a manufacturer part. I cant find a part number for the wiring harness, and honestly don't know what to call it. I have seen a video on youtube on how to remove the fuse box, but as mentioned, I don't want to cause more harm, nor cause a short in any fuses or platforms.
 

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2007 G6 GT conv
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14 Posts
I found that my connectors were fried. Ebay has some ceramic wired connectors that I used to replaced originals.
That is for going back to the original type lights. I have converted mine to LED which uses far less amps to run
all the time (daytime running lights). So overkill to be sure, but repaired correctly.
 
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