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Discussion Starter #1
I have had the check engine light come on and off frequently for the past couple months, finally took it in because while the light is on, the remote start will not work.

The dealership tells me that the MAP Sensor must be repaired/replaced and has quoted me a price of $400 - is this reasonable or is this something that I could replace on my own and just pay for the parts?
 

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What year G6, which motor?

First impressions is you can probably replace it yourself. Just get the part and do it. I can't imagine it's hard to get to. My motor doesn't have a MAP Sensor so I can't really tell you where to look or anything
 

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I agree probably something you can do on your own? Are you sure it was the MAP sensor and not the MAF sensor, and which motor do you have and I will look in my repair manual to tell you where it is and the procedure.
 

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I have had the check engine light come on and off frequently for the past couple months, finally took it in because while the light is on, the remote start will not work.

The dealership tells me that the MAP Sensor must be repaired/replaced and has quoted me a price of $400 - is this reasonable or is this something that I could replace on my own and just pay for the parts?
Can you give us the code/s they found?

The MAP sensor itself cost in the $50-70 neighborhood online & is very easy to replace. No programming is required so no tech 2 needed. So yeah, $400 seems a bit much. It's covered in the Chiltons for G6.

You might find it for less if you spent some time googlin:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQPontiacQQG6QQDelphiQQMAP_SensorQQ20052007QQDEPS10002.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e&apwid1aubAIF
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your replies, i have a 2007 G6 3.5L, the code is P0113 - says the air intake sensor is erratic and a new MAP sensor is needed.
 

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Thanks for your replies, i have a 2007 G6 3.5L, the code is P0113 - says the air intake sensor is erratic and a new MAP sensor is needed.
Forget the MAP sensor. It's the MAF/IAT combo sensor or it's circuit that code refers to. It's a little more for that part but still easy to install. But here's the deal: unless that circuit has been verified as ok you could still have the problem after replacing that sensor. Now, if the dealer told you it was the sensor itself, then I guess you can assume that they checked the circuit.
 

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How many miles are on your car? You can try this. Unplug and remove the MAF sensor, clean the terminals on the plug and in the sensor. You can purchase a product called MAF Sensor Cleaner. and use that to clean the little wire on the side of the sensor that sits in the intake. Sometimes soot will build up causing it to not work properly.
These are just some things you can try before spending the money to replace the actual sensor. Like greenman said the code refers to the circuit being at fault. Might as well check the integrity of the wires going to the sensor to. Just visually inspect them for any damage, Go from the sensor and try to trace it all the way down. Sure it's all inside the plastic loom, and I'd say it's pretty safe the assume the wire isn't damage inside that plastic.

If you're questioning where the sensor is just look at the Air filter box, and follow the intake tubing, the first sensor after the intake box is the MAF
 

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A small quibble: cleaning the MAF sensor wire wont help since the code is for the IAT sensor circuit.

There's an R&R with pictures in the Chiltons for G6 book.
 

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A small quibble: cleaning the MAF sensor wire wont help since the code is for the IAT sensor circuit.

There's an R&R with pictures in the Chiltons for G6 book.
Good point, I thought the IAT was built into the MAF, but thinking about it, Cleaning the MAF wouldn't make any difference for the IAT circuit haha. But I would hope cleaning the connector could help...
 

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I'll see if I can find a picture of the business end of the IAT sensor in the GM MAF/IAT combo sensor. Or I can take one tomorrow. It's kind of a shame GM puts both sensors in one box because the IAT part is cheap compared to the MAF part.
 

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The Vector heatsoak reduction kit pig tails into the MAF circuit and adds a separate IAT that you have to drill a hole into the intake in order to install. Maybe it's cheaper then replacing the MAF? But who knows if it'll actually solves the problem. As a performance enhancement though I'm pretty sure it's a complete waste of time and money
 
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