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Most cars won't see any benefit out of using synthethic motor oil. Using the ultra is a total waste of money unless you constantly drive at extreme conditions.
You mean the owners won't see any benefit. ALL cars will benefit from lower frictional losses which can effectively gain a HP or two. Smaller molecules are better fitting into engines that have tight tolerances. Premium vehicles come from the factory with full synthetic oil for a reason. In the last few years GM ships the Corvette with full synthetic oil in all engines. Before then, they didn't so they could save on costs (imagine that).

I run synthetic oil in my personal vehicles, as well as my work fleet and small engines. Saves me about $1500 a year between labour and fluid costs. Never had any mechanical problems in 11 years.

The owners however, will knowingly abide by their on board computer on when to change the oil. The oil change monitor doesn't take into account synthetic or non synthetic oil. It merely throws the same parameters together, such as speed, acceleration, engine rpm and time, together to make its calculations. Nothing actually 'tests' the oil for viscosity break down. If oil is good for say 15K miles, even driving the vehicle like you stole it, you'll get 13-14K out of that oil before it starts to break down. If you drive 150 miles a day all highway, you can go over the 15K mile service life easily with oil analysis. The oil change monitor might tell you to change it at 7K or 8K miles. It's inaccurate.

I'm currently running a couple tests, my G6 GT is one of the mules. This July, will be the SECOND year on the same oil and same oil filter (both Amsoil). For those that don't know, Amsoil offers a one year warranty. However, as I don't drive this car much, after a year I sent half an ounce of oil away for analysis and it came back with 72% life remaining. So, I left it in for another year and I'll do another analysis this July and knowingly change it out as it saw some highway trips this past year. The 5W30 is rated for 25K miles. As of last week, I have 15K miles on it - after two years. When I change the oil this July, I'll inspect the filter carefully and post up the oil analysis results after TWO years of use. :band:
 

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Yes.. that's all I use in my cars. I run it 10k miles with k&n extended filter and never have any problems. Bought the car w/ 20k miles on it and it now has 80k. Motor stay very clean inside using it as well
 

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i plan on geting royal purple when my next oil change comes up, have it in my cavalier and am happy with it... was like 80 bucks but well worth it
 

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actually it was me who was wrong, it is titanium, i just didnt have it on hand when i asked the question, i just remembered the bottle was gold. and ive used royal purple before in other cars, my foreign mods, but i did wonder which would be better, the titanium or the royal purple now. and with which filter
 

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ive been running mobile 1 full synthetic for as long as I can remember changing oil but ive always been curious on that royal purple. I may have to try it out this next couple of oil changes... I remember when the bottle said "guaranteed 5% hp gain". last time I seen a bottle it didn't say it anymore tho...
 

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I run mobile 1 full syn. Actually just switched to it last oil change. I ran royal purple in my old car. Ran great but eventually found all the leaks, which I should've expected at near 150k.

The shop I worked at always does royal purple and gives it a 12 year change interval, which sounds find for my moms daily that does 5 miles a day.

I've seen videos on the YouTube of friction tests with royal purple and other oils. Some pretty convincing stuff, I don't doubt royal purple is good. I just think there's more hype surrounding it then it really deserves.
 

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ive been running mobile 1 full synthetic for as long as I can remember changing oil but ive always been curious on that royal purple. I may have to try it out this next couple of oil changes... I remember when the bottle said "guaranteed 5% hp gain". last time I seen a bottle it didn't say it anymore tho...
Synthetic oil doesnt gain HP, it frees up HP that would have otherwise been lost due to friction. With a 200hp engine you might see a 1-3hp increase on a dyno.


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Ive been running 10w 40 edge for a while. Used edge titanium a couple times. But the localautoparts store doesn't carry 10 40 for titanium. Only 20w 50 n 10w 30. I was thinking of going 20 50 but I think it will be to thick. Any opinions on that? Im in texas and have 140k on my 3.5L.
 

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I do my own oil changes using Wix filter and Mobil 1 Synthetic.

Why Synthetic? Well this is Texas and we don't have much of a winter and when we do the temps are only below 32 for a few days at a time usually. I think this last winter we only had about 14 days total where it was below 32. But dang do we usually have a summer you wont soon forget about 5-6 months out of the year at least in the DFW area! Often times we are right up there with Phoenix Arizona and unlike us they are in the middle of the desert!

A lot of my driving is congested city driving and some Highway rush hour. I would say about 70/30 ratio. While I-35 aint all that bad it gets an "A" for effort when comparing it to I-5 in the Sea-Tac area or SoCal or the 405 outside LA CA.

So while Dino oil may work just about as good for the dollar, I want a oil that is gonna be able to stand up to high heat and not break down. I already have enough heat here so any added reduction in friction which will minimize adding heat to a already hot engine is highly desirable.

Hence the reasons I willingly pay the added cost that Synthetic oil cost me. YMMV...
 

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I use Kendall Gt-1 Titanium 5w-30, with Purolator, or Napa(WIX), and I change every 5000 miles. It's not overhype and it doesn't drain your pocket book. 2009 3.5 GT. Been changing my own oil for 35 years.
 

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Oil..

Cars value goes down every year.. doesn't matter if you have 5grand in the car the KBB is what the cars only worth is LOL...

But REALLY you guys do know that the owners man, say what you need to buy for the best engine protection??

syn I always believe to be the best know doubt!

Its all a matter of changing the OIL not only what you put in the car..

I can tell EVERYONE that if you want the best GET A TOP GRADE filter!
That is what stops the debris and keeps them out of the engine! :)

Want cheap??!! Use walmart supertech oil full syn. if cheaper the "mobile one"
I'm 100% positive that this oil meets or exceeds the GM Dexos oil lubricant standards. GM approved!

The oil is also only: 17.47 http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Full-Synthetic-5W30-Motor-Oil-5-qt/17133942#Q%26A+Exchange
Even though you should look for the 3 labels the manual says to look for... as seen this meets the GM specs

One more added thing: Dexos is a brand name oil made by GM, its not a classification of oil. most all oil meets or exceeds Dexos specs. The only thing to look out for is if vehicle has a turbo or high performance engine that might build up sludge or foam. If it does a synthetic or oil with detergents is needed. Either way supertech synthetic meets both these requirements and exceeds Dexos specs.
 

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I have used Valvoline 5-30 conventional oil in my 3.5 GT since new and now at 71,000 miles and no problems. I may switch to high mileage Valvoline in the near future but long as you change your oil and filter regularly you shouldn't ever have a problem.
 

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Most engines are designed to run on conventional oil to give full protection under normal driving conditions for the life of the engine.
If using conventional oil causes excessive wear or other engine lubrication problems, then the problem is with the engine, not with the oil itself.
Synthetic oil will gives you added protection, but 99% of the time this extra protection is not needed and is therefore a waste of money.
 

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Synthetic oil advantages: longer drain intervals, better flow - gets to critical components faster, can promote longer engine life due to using smaller molecular particles vs conventional oil, best cost per mile depending on drain interval, lowers component friction over conventional oil.

Conventional oil advantages: less up front cost but higher cost per mile.

Using full synthetic oil at its maximum drain interval offers the same protection as conventional oil does at its maximum drain interval. Using synthetic oil and draining it early is still more beneficial for the engine over conventional oil, although you lose some of the cost savings.

All engine oil gives full protection, otherwise what good is it. I find older iron block engines prefer conventional oil. My 2000 Dodge R/T 5.9L has and engine that has tech which is based from five decades ago. Engines back then were built based on low mileage oil changes and conventional oil was the norm. Above 5K miles running synthetic in my 5.9L, I do burn more oil because the engine doesn't have the tight tolerances that even my 3.5L G6 has. I put on 9-10K miles a year on full synthetic on my G6 GT and I only burn half a quart of oil throughout the year. My Durango starts to burn synthetic at the rate of 1 quart per 1K miles above 5K miles. Under 5K it uses roughly half a quart per 2K miles which is within acceptable limits. Using conventional and changing it at 4K miles, I burn only half a quart. Conventional oil is cheaper to 'burn'. Ultimately it comes down to personal preference. The winters here get down to -40C with the windchill, which is the freezing point of antifreeze. Even with a block heater starting a cold engine using synthetic oil is a huge improvement as the engines not only crank less, but the oil gets up into the top end over a full second sooner which saves on long term wear and tear.
 
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