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So my wife has a 2009 G6 GT, and two mornings ago, it didn't start the first try. The second try it started, but the clock was 12:00, and it clearly had some sort of battery issue. The negative terminal was corroded badly, and it did the same thing when she was at work. It was the original battery, so it had lasted close to 6 years(she bought it used), so I figured the battery was bad.

I had her just drive straight home, and left the car there, while I went and bought a new battery from Batteries Plus, and took it back home to install it. While installing it, I didn't think to check the terminals to verify the positive/negatives were in the same position as the old battery, which in this case they were reversed(which is dumb if you ask me). So when I hooked it up, I had accidently connected the positive clamp to the negative pole, and negative clamp to the positive pole. The car honked violently, and made what seemed like a revving noise, before I yanked the negative clamp off again and realized what had happened.

Switched them to the correct way, which was difficult because the wires had to be stretched tightly to sit in that position, and the car started up normally, except the radio would not power on. Checked the fuse, and an 10A fuse had blown, no big deal, replaced it and radio is back in business.

Per Batteries+'s advice, brought it back to them to have them test it and make sure the new battery wasn't getting drained, and the alternator wasn't bad. Sure enough, the NEW battery was draining, and the worker confirmed that the alternator must be the culprit after all. Not happy at this point, but it is what it is, a 6 year old battery needs to be replaced anyway.

So today, I pull the alternator off, and bring it to Autozone to get a replacement, bring the remanufactured one back home, hook everything back up(which was incredibly easy I must say, being my first time working with an alternator), and the car started right up.

Just in case, I drove it around for ~15 minutes, and brought it to the same Batteries+ to have the verify the battery wasn't still draining. Of course, with my luck, the NEW battery is still draining, even with the replacement alternator.

I just got off the phone with Autozone, and they're testing the alternator core I left with them, and I will be calling back in about 45 minutes to see how it went.

Assuming they tell me the core alternator was good, where do I go from here? Did I fry something electrical when I reversed the negative/positive? There are no blown fuses. ANY help is greatly appreciated, if there's any more information you need, let me know. :(

EDIT: So I talked to AutoZone, and the original alternator is good still, so its not an alternator issue. I'm deathly afraid of starting to replace wiring harnesses without knowing where the issue is, any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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battore problems?

Hooking a battery backwards can cause a lot of problems. From small mushroom clouds, to total CPU meltdown. As for the cables not reaching the right posts is because the guy gave you the wrong one

Now to get to the heart of the thing. When is your car leaking electricity? Is your car not changing. Or you have a drain. All cars will have a gizmo that tells the alternator to send power to the battery. Wait hold on, check and clean all the posts you can. Now if you car is not charging it wont run long if you turn everything on when its running. ie: Lights radio, a.c./ heater. That should kill a battery pretty quick. Now you have a charging problem. If your car runs out of gas first then you have a drain. You can also unhook the battery when its running,at your own risk!

To check for a drain on all cars. You need voltage meter. And a helper. Hook up the meter to the battery, then have your helper start pulling fuses one at a time. Intell the meter changes. That is the circuit you need to look at.
 

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119 views, not one single reply.

Paid someone to fix it, mods, close this thread, and delete this account if possible.
Hey buddy. My brother is having the exact same
119 views, not one single reply.

Paid someone to fix it, mods, close this thread, and delete this account if possible.
Hey buddy. My brother is having the exact same problems. We replaced the battery/starter/alternator will run for a minute then die. All connections look good. What did the problem end up being?
 

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I had the same problem a while back. My trunk lid was not fully latched which drained my battery overnight to the point that it would not start the engine. I found it by putting my voltmeter in the AMP mode and putting it between the negative cable connector and negative battery post. I then pulled one fuse at a time until the load indicated by the meter was reduced by quite a bit. I suggest using the 10 AMP range. The normal draw should be around 50MA which won't even show up on the meter at the 10 AMP setting. If you are seeing something like a 3.5 AMP reading, you have a problem and you need to start pulling fuses one at a time until you find the one causing the problem.
 
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