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yes i have put a turbo on an 2006 G6 3.5L with an auto and it ran fine and i am working on the tuning side now. But no issues so far...
Posts by Speed Mafia
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Well with no tuning i cant do much, but from what i gather it is very responsive and yes worth it for sure!
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No problem, let me get a camera and get back in town and I will post up picks no biggie.
My issue is with tuning but I am working with the new SMT8 so tuning should take no time.
So please be patient but if you have questions let me know
My issue is with tuning but I am working with the new SMT8 so tuning should take no time.
So please be patient but if you have questions let me know
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Well heading home and the SMT8 i believe should be sitting at the door! Also working with Mr White to see if he can just make a tune for this turbo kit to make life easy!
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Where did you get the number for 7g for a turbo kit?adn the sts turbo for the g6 is 7000.
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I have the same kit for sale that i installed on another G6 but the customer would not let me take pics as he wanted the kit for free if i was going to take pics of the car. i explained i would be more then happy to give him money or something but he said basically....picks = Free Turbo Kit!
Here is the kit i installed or how it started but i cannot share picks of his car.
it is a basic rear mount but i found a way to mount it up front it is so sick!
i can draw out if someone is looking to do the kit and keep the turbo up front like a "traditional" turbo kit...my kit i designed was a front mount and rear mount all on the same car. Trust me i have never busted my ass so hard in R and D then get screwed on the picks like this!
For those looking to do there own kit here is the break down!
Front Mount Kit:
*Started with a Universal Rear mount kit (cheap and has all the hardware needed besides misc stuff i will cover)
*Unbolted Front Cat exhaust and built new exhaust to a "Y" pipe to the stock back exhaust.
*"Y" pipe to Turbo Flange
*Turbo Flange to Turbo
*Turbo Down pipe to stock exhaust
*removed Air Filter Box
*replaced with K&N (in pick) and piping to intake of turbo (MAF Sensor)
*Turbo out to FMIC
*FMIC to TB
Cost:
1600.00 Turbo kit
600.00 Piping and Additional Hardware
300.00 Labor on Welding and Bending
225.00 FMIC
50.00 Misc Fluids oils..etc
125.00 Silicone Couplers and clamps
It came out to right around 3200.00 with taxes for it all
Rear Mount Kit:
*cut 3-6" after rear axle to muffler
*Mount Flange
*Run Piping to TB
*Run Piping for Intake and K&N
*Modify supporting hangers and fabrication to hold turbo in place
*Wiring for Oil Pump
*Oil Lines
Cost:
1600.00 Turbo kit
500.00 Piping and Additional Hardware
400.00 Labor on Welding and Bending
75.00 Misc Fluids oils..etc
175.00 Silicone Couplers and clamps
It came out to right around 2800.00 for it all
Conclusion:
The rear mount is more work believe it or not it is a little more piping and seemed to take longer on labor because you are running from the back to the front but all in all they are both sweet kits! the Front mount was not bad just basic exhaust work and fabrication but that is a little easier to bolt in behind the motor and fire wall. Pretty tight but looks clean.
I like both kits and i only ran them at 5-6psi on these kits.
I believe if you are thrifty with a welder and tools building your own turbo kit is a snap...you will do allot of welding if you do plan to do either kit or have an exhaust shop do your welding and that will speed up the process.
Thanks
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Tuning the Turbo kit or ?
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using a piggy back called Perfect Power, "SMT8".
http://speedmafia.com/index-1b.html
or
http://www.perfectpower.com/Products/smt8.asp
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The tunes are specific so what i created was a default tune that will get the individual up and running then they would need fine tune there own specific tune for Turbo, NA, or Supercharger/Kompressor
We started with Seat of the pants and fine tuned via Dyno Jet
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well i wrote a whole explanation on what and how and why i cannot take pics per my attorney...etc but the fact of the matter is i don't have the rep on this forum if it was other forums i would not be questioned but that is fine...
Seems all i need to do is scout out another G6 and hook them up! Is there any 2006 G6 2 doors in Colorado looking for a Turbo Kit...Let me know i will do all the labor for free and give you a killer price on the hardware...!
Hopefully someone from this forum!
Thanks
Seems all i need to do is scout out another G6 and hook them up! Is there any 2006 G6 2 doors in Colorado looking for a Turbo Kit...Let me know i will do all the labor for free and give you a killer price on the hardware...!
Hopefully someone from this forum!
Thanks
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Replied
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Sure what is your issue?
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- Tuning via Perfect Power (i am a dealer for them)
- SMT8 has its own OS that you can modify fuel and timing in there interface
- All Timing and Fuel was modified off MAF and Ignition
- Numbers, didnt get to read because we just finished the tune (thats when the shit hit the fan and i said your tuned have fun with it and lets clean it up and lets get vids, dyno vid and pics....etc and i got ****ed)
- Both Setups where on 5-6psi per the STS wastegate
- Wiring the piggy back you are basically tapping or intercepting the signal to the ECM and changing it to change your needed out come
- What else, takes about 15-20hrs to install the kits
- Edit: Trans help up fine and hp gain is 50% min
- Auto Transmission
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no numbers we did load testing and highway cruising...low bottom end take off...etc basically 3-4hrs of load testing. 0-75% thorttle reposnse and expectation resulting...75-100% WOT pulls are easest and last thing when i tune...basically throw fuel and watch timing and air to fuel and your done...doesnt make sense to have a fined tuned WOT car that wont drive on the street.
2006 G6 3.5L Auto GT 2-door
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- zero vacuum - 4psi 14:7:1 (remeber i am in Denver Colorado) Mile high above sea level
- 4-6 psi dropped down from 11:2:1 on hard load and light load 11:5:1 conservative
- Yep, working with Perfect Power on an install manual and wiring diagrom for a quick and easy install
- Good question, shifting is a little delayed but not much so it still contains the soft shift...wish we could remove it i would love to have hard shifts and quicker shifting times...
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Correct, 201 Fly Wheel and 50% does equal that but again remember we are not at sea level so 201 is now 150 ok not that bad but hell it feels like it! you can bet on a 20% decrease in power coming to Denver Colorado Good question
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My self and a partner own
speedmafia.com and a consulting firm.
There should be no where on this forum i said i did 2 G6s...i used the 1 car to do R and D for both kits if that is what you mean? i started with the rear mount and then as i started doing the piping to the front i saw there was space to mount a turbo on the back side by the exhaust manifold
so i did 2 kits on 1 car...
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14.7 : 1 = Stoich = THAT IS FACTORY! - Yes remember i am at 6K feel and loss of air is added so i can run a stock turbo or supercharger on a car here at 6-10K feet with that same air to fuel....i am basically adding enough air to put it at sea level
11.2:1 = RICH = is this before or after tuning? from 0-75% throttle deflection and load so yes 11:2:1 - 11:5:1 conservative on the fat side...Rich is a guy i know that banged his sister
What lbs are the injectors you put in? do they have a #? also are they low or high impedience?
Believe it or not i used the stock but they where making i am sure in duty cycle...that will be part of the kit if and when i get another G6 in
11.2:1 = RICH = is this before or after tuning? from 0-75% throttle deflection and load so yes 11:2:1 - 11:5:1 conservative on the fat side...Rich is a guy i know that banged his sister
What lbs are the injectors you put in? do they have a #? also are they low or high impedience?
Believe it or not i used the stock but they where making i am sure in duty cycle...that will be part of the kit if and when i get another G6 in
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here is the challenges we face here at the mile high and why i only do forced induction and nitrous
HAS (High Altitude Solution) is one of the issues you will come across when dealing with horse power! Below is a break down of Sea Level Vs. Altitudes and its effects.
Sea Level: Units of Pressure
Inches of Mercury = (in. Hg.)
Atmospheres = (atm)
Kilopascal = (kpa)
Millibars = (mb)
Pressure equivalents to:
1.0 atm = 29.9 in.
Hg. = 760 mm
Hg. = 101.3
kPa = 1013.25 mb
Atmospheric Pressure = 14.7 psi & 13 cubic feet of air = 1 pound
Power Loss due to Altitude
Air Density decreases at a rate of 2.9% - 3.0% for each 1000 ft. of elevation above Sea Level. See Standard Atmosphere below for background information.
Naturally Aspirated: Atmospheric Pressure 14.5 psi (It's hard to drive at sea level 14.7 psi)
Atmospheric Pressure @ 9000 feet = 10.5 psi
Pressure Loss = (14.5 - 10.5) = 4.0 (4.0/14.5) = 27.58 % @ 9,000 feet
Does a Turbo/Supercharger lose power with altitude? Yes!
Atmospheric Pressure = 14.5 psi, Boost = 10 psi, Total Pressure = 24.5
Atmospheric Pressure @ 9000 feet = 10.5 psi + Boost of 10 psi = Total 20.5 psi
Approximate Pressure Loss = (24.5 - 20.5) = 4.0 (4.0/24.5) = 16.32 % @ 9,000 feet
The power loss due to altitude is much less with the Turbo/Supercharger. The critical difference is that you can flip the switch on the Turbo (most superchargers will need a different pulley to add boost) to 15 lbs boost and get your sea level HP!!
Turbo considerations: As altitude is increased the turbo fan must increase rpm to maintain a constant boost pressure. With large displacement engines the turbo fan may have to spin faster than is efficient. The result is slower acceleration. The cure is a larger turbo or lower elevation. High Altitude will challenge the best tuners ability to compensate for temperature, altitude, and changing weather conditions!
Air Density ~ Standard Atmosphere ~ Pressure Charts
www.usatoday.com/weather/wdensity.htm
Understanding Air Density
In simple terms, density is the mass of anything divided by the volume it occupies. Scientists usually measure air density in kilograms per cubic meter. At sea level, if the air is completely dry, and the temperature is 0 degrees Celsius, a cubic meter will have 1.275 kilograms of air in it. In other words, the density is 1.275 kilograms per cubic meter.
The air's density depends on its temperature, its pressure and how much water vapor is in the air. We'll talk about dry air first, which means we'll be concerned only with temperature and pressure.
The molecules of nitrogen, oxygen and other gases that make up air are moving around at incredible speeds, colliding with each other and all other objects. The higher the temperature, the faster the molecules are moving. As the air is heated, the molecules speed up, which means they push harder against their surroundings. If the air is in a balloon, heating it will expand the balloon, cooling it will cause the balloon to shrink as the molecules slow down. If the heated air is surrounded by nothing but air, it will push the surrounding air aside. As a result, the amount of air in a particular "box" decreases when the air is heated if the air is free to escape from the box. In the free atmosphere, the air's density decreases as the air is heated.
Pressure has the opposite effect on air. Increasing the pressure increases the density. Think of what happens when you press down the handle of a bicycle pump. The air is compressed. The density increases as pressure increases.
Altitude and weather systems can change the air's pressure. As you go higher, the air's pressure decreases from around 1,000 millibars at sea level to 500 millibars at around 18,000 feet. At 100,000 feet above sea level the air's pressure is only about 10 millibars. Weather systems that bring higher or lower air pressure also affect the air's density, but not nearly as much as altitude.
We see that the air's density is lowest at a high elevation on a hot day when the atmospheric pressure is low, say in Denver when a storm is moving in on a hot day. The air's density is highest at low elevations when the pressure is high and the temperature is low, such as on a sunny but extremely cold, winter's day in Alaska.
The Standard Atmosphere
The standard atmosphere can be thought of as the average pressure, temperature and air density for various altitudes. It is useful for engineering calculations for aircraft & mountain sleds. It also shows in a general way the pressures and temperatures to be expected at various altitudes. The standard atmosphere is based on mathematical formulas that reduce temperature and pressure by certain amounts as altitude is gained. But, the results are close to averages of balloon and airplane measurements at various altitudes.
HAS (High Altitude Solution) is one of the issues you will come across when dealing with horse power! Below is a break down of Sea Level Vs. Altitudes and its effects.
Sea Level: Units of Pressure
Inches of Mercury = (in. Hg.)
Atmospheres = (atm)
Kilopascal = (kpa)
Millibars = (mb)
Pressure equivalents to:
1.0 atm = 29.9 in.
Hg. = 760 mm
Hg. = 101.3
kPa = 1013.25 mb
Atmospheric Pressure = 14.7 psi & 13 cubic feet of air = 1 pound
Power Loss due to Altitude
Air Density decreases at a rate of 2.9% - 3.0% for each 1000 ft. of elevation above Sea Level. See Standard Atmosphere below for background information.
Naturally Aspirated: Atmospheric Pressure 14.5 psi (It's hard to drive at sea level 14.7 psi)
Atmospheric Pressure @ 9000 feet = 10.5 psi
Pressure Loss = (14.5 - 10.5) = 4.0 (4.0/14.5) = 27.58 % @ 9,000 feet
Does a Turbo/Supercharger lose power with altitude? Yes!
Atmospheric Pressure = 14.5 psi, Boost = 10 psi, Total Pressure = 24.5
Atmospheric Pressure @ 9000 feet = 10.5 psi + Boost of 10 psi = Total 20.5 psi
Approximate Pressure Loss = (24.5 - 20.5) = 4.0 (4.0/24.5) = 16.32 % @ 9,000 feet
The power loss due to altitude is much less with the Turbo/Supercharger. The critical difference is that you can flip the switch on the Turbo (most superchargers will need a different pulley to add boost) to 15 lbs boost and get your sea level HP!!
Turbo considerations: As altitude is increased the turbo fan must increase rpm to maintain a constant boost pressure. With large displacement engines the turbo fan may have to spin faster than is efficient. The result is slower acceleration. The cure is a larger turbo or lower elevation. High Altitude will challenge the best tuners ability to compensate for temperature, altitude, and changing weather conditions!
Air Density ~ Standard Atmosphere ~ Pressure Charts
www.usatoday.com/weather/wdensity.htm
Understanding Air Density
In simple terms, density is the mass of anything divided by the volume it occupies. Scientists usually measure air density in kilograms per cubic meter. At sea level, if the air is completely dry, and the temperature is 0 degrees Celsius, a cubic meter will have 1.275 kilograms of air in it. In other words, the density is 1.275 kilograms per cubic meter.
The air's density depends on its temperature, its pressure and how much water vapor is in the air. We'll talk about dry air first, which means we'll be concerned only with temperature and pressure.
The molecules of nitrogen, oxygen and other gases that make up air are moving around at incredible speeds, colliding with each other and all other objects. The higher the temperature, the faster the molecules are moving. As the air is heated, the molecules speed up, which means they push harder against their surroundings. If the air is in a balloon, heating it will expand the balloon, cooling it will cause the balloon to shrink as the molecules slow down. If the heated air is surrounded by nothing but air, it will push the surrounding air aside. As a result, the amount of air in a particular "box" decreases when the air is heated if the air is free to escape from the box. In the free atmosphere, the air's density decreases as the air is heated.
Pressure has the opposite effect on air. Increasing the pressure increases the density. Think of what happens when you press down the handle of a bicycle pump. The air is compressed. The density increases as pressure increases.
Altitude and weather systems can change the air's pressure. As you go higher, the air's pressure decreases from around 1,000 millibars at sea level to 500 millibars at around 18,000 feet. At 100,000 feet above sea level the air's pressure is only about 10 millibars. Weather systems that bring higher or lower air pressure also affect the air's density, but not nearly as much as altitude.
We see that the air's density is lowest at a high elevation on a hot day when the atmospheric pressure is low, say in Denver when a storm is moving in on a hot day. The air's density is highest at low elevations when the pressure is high and the temperature is low, such as on a sunny but extremely cold, winter's day in Alaska.
The Standard Atmosphere
The standard atmosphere can be thought of as the average pressure, temperature and air density for various altitudes. It is useful for engineering calculations for aircraft & mountain sleds. It also shows in a general way the pressures and temperatures to be expected at various altitudes. The standard atmosphere is based on mathematical formulas that reduce temperature and pressure by certain amounts as altitude is gained. But, the results are close to averages of balloon and airplane measurements at various altitudes.
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Calling my Dyno Shop i outsource to to get the dyno data...thanks for reminding me
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