Just wondering, did you ever fix your problem? I have the same issue. my '07 G6 don't crank.

 

I had fought this problem for 2 years. But I was determined to figure it out. Still uncertain of which was the fix because I done them both at the same time. I had an old mechanic tell me, to replace the fuse blocks. The one under the hood, along with one in the truck. So I done both, it's been a year since, and she cranks everytime now !

 

Before we jump the gun, I apologize. First step is have you checked for codes yet? Of so what are they?

 

Don't have any codes since battery was disconnected, but I've read also about replacing fuse box under hood.

 

I am chasing similar gremlin. Car starts intermittently. No crank. 3 shops have worked on it. New security keys, new starter, baterry good, cleaned grounds. Once it starts runs perfect, randomly the cluster wigs out, throws dummy lights like traction control, abs, low fuel....then either a check engine or security light. Restart car, sometimes light stays on, sometimes clears and car runs perfect. ????? Somedays no problems, then no start, or start and goes wiggy. Had computer checked lots of codes thrown, u2105, 2107, 2106 all loss communication with ecm, BCM, & TCM. Others p0700, u0073, p150c, p0523. At wits end. I read about fuse box maybe being culprit? Any way to test?

 

Have you tried adding electrical grade dielectric grease to the blue BCM connectors and working it in / reseating them? This was the solution for a recall. The BCM is the master for the CAN bus. I have personally also added it to the PCM connectors as well, but some would argue against doing this. If it worked it would be a simple fix, if not at least it didn't cost much

Good luck with the fix

 

I will give it a shot. I was planning on doing a round robin of all the connectors this weekend. Figured the shops that worked on it would of tried this but who knows. Thank you for the suggestion.

 

I have tightened all the pins in my plugs wiggled then in and out to help with contacts and still no crank or start.

 

This is a description of how the starter circuit is supposed to work. It may give clues on where to look / check. If you are not getting the 'click' from the starter solenoid then it is likely that the conditions for starting are not being met or power, ground or the start signal is not reaching the starter.

Circuit Description
Once the ignition is placed in the Run/Crank position, the control circuit of the Run/Crank relay is grounded by the body control module (BCM). With the Run/Crank relay switch closed, battery positive voltage flows through it and on to the park/neutral position (PNP) switch. With the PNP switch in either the Park or Neutral position, battery positive voltage will flow to the START relay coil supply voltage input terminal of the engine control module (ECM) and the coil side of the START relay. Placing the ignition in the START position sends a message to the ECM requesting engine start. If the ECM has determined that the transmission is in Park or Neutral and theft is not active, it will supply 12 volts to the control circuit of the START relay. Battery positive voltage will then flow through the switch side of the START relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid, cranking the engine.

 

Its the ground wire behind starter. Probably also says "error" on dash too.
Mine did that and after battery, alternator, 2 starters and a few hundred in labor it was a ground wire my buddy fixed for free.

 

Its the ground wire behind starter. Probably also says "error" on dash too.
Mine did that and after battery, alternator, 2 starters and a few hundred in labor it was a ground wire my buddy fixed for free.

which ground wire because I had the same exact problem. All of a sudden car wouldn’t start after I went inside a gas station through error code up on my dash not cranking not starting checked grounds going to battery terminal replaced ignition switch replaced pedal position sensor use lithium grease on the BCM and now from doing more research it seems anytime that error code pops up like that. It’s a ground wire somewhere but seems different locations of ground wires, causing it. Just curious which one you replaced to fix it any help would be greatly appreciated.👏

 

Alright took all grounds loose and cleaned them and reinstalled still having same problem. I have it for sale for 500.00 asap. Just put 4,000 in the front end.

 

did you reprogram your key? I believe we had to do that as well after fixing ground wire. the wire was gold if i remember correctly and breaks very easy. Not on starter but behind it on the block,

 

I had the same issue and finally removed the engine compartment fuse block, dismantled it, cleaned it and reinstalled with dielectric grease on tabs before reattaching to connections on wire harness. Holy crap! It started! Tried new BCM and ECM prior to the fuse block. I can return those parts now.

 

Did ya'll check the shift rod from the shifter to the neutral switch. Mine was disconnect after checking everything else.

I put it in Drive. attached rod to switch. ziptied. Put it back in park. Then started the car.

you are welcome. please kick some ass.

 

Do you still have the G6 for sale for 500

 

also had my starter nut losen itself after 20 years.. lots of weird problems were caused by that.. my g6 is for sale for 10k if interested.. it's convertable works good too.

 

Hey I'm currently at a BP gas station and filled my car up and now it won't start. Called Block by Block corp. in Cleveland Ohio to give me a jump and after a few tries nothing. I did spray some WD40 on earlier . Radio works and I'm using my Bluetooth transmitter to listen to music from my phone. Please help.

 

I have an 08 G6 and had the same issue. Fuse block was the problem.

 

I got a 2005 Pontiac G6 GT I checked all the fuels and relays couse my windshield wipers and heater quiet working I got them working but now the car won't start an I checked everything I can think of

 

it in park? my jesus clip came off the shifter inside the engine under the resevior.. have someone shift the thing from park and see if it's operating under there correctly

 

This thread totally narrowed mine down. I went back and read the circuit description and following that whim, I moved the car out of park and back in a few times. On the third time, the doors tried to unlock like I had actually parked (unlike the other times). The car started right up. I’ll still need to diagnose for the fix but if you are out there and stranded, something to try. The key naturally needs to be in the on position while you shift.