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I can't seem to find a break down pic of the oil filter adapter and gasket, is the gasket a single gasket or kit of several gaskets? Any help?

Thank you in advance:)
 

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Oil filter housing gasket

How does the oil filter housing gasket attach/fasten into the housing? I beed to replace mine but haven't taken it apart yet
 

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Hi - I have the same issue - 2006 3.5l. G6. I was able t purchase the gasket at the local dealer. However after getting under my car there is one bolt that is easily accessible. The other one wouldn't you know it is sitting right on top of the AC compressor. You can't get a socket on it, you can't get a 90 degree 3/4 open face wrench on it. Only 2 options. open face open ended 90 degree wrench. (Maybe) Or drop the AC unit down. There was a bolt that looked easy enough to unbolt (On the AC compressor - bolting the unit to the car frame) to where it would move the AC unit but I did not want to get in to that as I'm not that advanced in mechanics. I simply believe the idiot auto place I had change my oil somehow had did this for return business. After giving in to not being able to replace the gasket I went ahead and just tightened up the one bolt I could access. What do ya know.... The leak stopped. I still have my gasket I may have my shade tree mechanic replace if the leak reappears. I'll keep the gasket for future use.
 

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Oil Filter Housing Gasket Replacement - 2006

Resurrecting this thread with 2006 replacement procedure I used. My wife's G6 was leaking oil, and apparently from this gasket. My first fix was to just tighten the bolts. As stated above, the bottom bolt is buried behind the A/C compressor. I bought the replacement gasket and waited for the next oil change. Here were the steps I used...in my garage with no special tools; took me two hours, but I was working with one arm in a splint; you will be far faster if you have two 'good' hands!:D

1. Jack the car and put front up on stands
2. Warm the car (just enough) and drain the oil.
3. Remove the filter and let drain completely.
4. LET THE CAR COOL DOWN! The exhaust is RIGHT there and this fix is a burn waiting to happen if it is hot.
5. While the car is cooling, remove the air intake hose across the front (two band clamps and one 10mm bolt in front of battery)
6. De-tension the serpentine belt (1/4" drive socket wrench or breaker bar), removing from the upper idler. Let the belt stay there and note how it is run--good time to replace if it is old.
7. Loosen the upper two bolts (15mm) that hold the A/C compressor to the block; remove the right bolt, but leave the other one threaded in several turns. This will support the compressor and the spacer that sits between the compressor and block while you remove the oil filter adapter.
8. Assuming the exhaust pipe is cool, remove the 15mm A/C compressor bolt on the bottom. The compressor will now rotate enough to clear the bottom filter adapter bolt.
9. Remove the three filter adapter bolts (10mm) and remove the adapter and gasket. Note the position of the filter; the 'U' shaped hole is behind the bolt that is blocked by the A/C compressor.
10. Clean off the face of the adapter and the engine block.
11. Replace with new gasket (available at all major auto parts stores; actually was in stock at the "O" store in town).
12. Position new gasket on housing with upper bolt to 'hold' as you reinstall. Get all three bolts started and finger-snug, then position the adapter 'in the middle' before tightening first bolt--it can slide a bit each way. Seems there should be a guide pin to hold set, but there is not one. I centered it between the free play and snugged up the bolts.
13. Torque the 10mm bolts to spec (14lbs I think; confirm that, though)
14. Reinstall the lower A/C Compressor bolt but leave loose.
15. Reposition the spacer and reinstall the upper bolt you removed (a pain when you only can work with one hand). Torque all of the A/C bolts to spec (do not forget about the lower one you left loose).
16. Reinstall the serpentine belt and air breather hose.
17. Reinstall oil drain plug and new filter.
18. Check the belt is centered in the pulleys and all bolts are back (none left over).
19. Fill with oil, start, and check for leaks (and no squeals from the serpentine belt, especially with A/C engaged).
20. Shut down, take off of jack stands and you're done.

I noticed that the OEM was a soft metal gasket with a thin silicone or other cushion on each side. The replacement gasket I got (Felpro) was more traditional with a 'soft' coating the entire face of each side of the gasket. Can't complain too much...OEM lasted 100K miles before the leak started.
 

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Had that same thought but guessed the bolt did not even have room to 'back out' before hitting the A/C Compressor. Plus, the time to loosen the serpentine belt and loosen the A/C bolts seemed way less of an investment than fabricating a wrench, especially given my limited fabrication skills and working with one good arm!
 

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Thats weird cause i did mine in about thirty minutes with regular tools and a universal joint socket
 
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