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Hello. I just bought a gorgeous 2006 g6 and drove 20 miles and it died without warning at a stop light. A guy pushed it off the road tried to jump it and nothing. Added some water to battery cells and still wouldnt start but it did click. So i had it towed and when the driver put the flashers on there was a loud clicking from the trunk so he turned them off lol. Dropped my car at home and now im super sad and need some help guys PLEASE!! IVE got a broken ankle, and a few backyard mechanic helpers and very little money now. Thanks in advance!!!
 

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Definitely sounds like a battery problem. Pull it out and take it to an auto parts store and have it tested. Another thing you may want to look at is the ground cables from the battery. Kinda common for them to loosen up.

And now that I think about it might want to get your alternator tested as well.
 

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Alternator, battery and terminals all fine. I notice on the instrument panel the "brakes" light stays on and within sbout 10 miles the car dies and acts like the battery is dead. It clicks like it almost is charged enough but wont start.
 

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There is actually a Recall for the brake lights staying on or not working. You can have this fixed for you for Free at any local GM dealer. The issue is a poor wire connection at the Body COntrol Module. Below is the Recall information:





# XXXXX: Product Safety - Brake Lamps Not Working Properly - (Feb 10, 2009)

Subject:
08317 -- Brake Lamps Not Working Properly



Models:
2005-2006 Pontiac G6



Condition

General Motors has decided that a defect, which relates to motor vehicle safety, exists in certain 2005-2006 model year Pontiac G6 vehicles. Some of these vehicles have a condition where the brake lamps may not operate properly because of fretting corrosion in a wiring connector. Fretting corrosion in the connector could cause the brake lamps to illuminate when the brake pedal has not been depressed, or the lamps may not illuminate when the brake pedal is depressed. In addition, the cruise control may not engage, or greater brake pedal force may be required to shift the vehicle out of PARK. Brake lamps that are not operating properly may not warn a driver in a following vehicle of the braking status and could lead to a crash without prior warning.



Correction

Dealers are to apply a dielectric lubricant to the connector to repair and prevent fretting corrosion.

Here is a how to video;
 

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Added some water to battery cells and still wouldnt start but it did click.
I haven't seen a car battery that you can add water to in at least 20 years. I would make sure you have a correct, properly working battery first and proceed from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks to all. Well i believe the issue is a parasitic draw on the battery from the body control module and plan on correcting that today. However theres still the loud rattle that sounds like its coming from the flexplate. I had someone look at it with the cover off but he said it looked fine. I was told it could be the starter motor pinion to the flexplate?? What about the catalytic converter could it make a loud knocking noise upon acceleration? I swear it seems the rattle/knock isnt constant and as the tranny shifts if i back off the gas it is lessened. My last guess is timing chain tensioner but it doesnt really sound like its coming from that area. Can you guys suggest things to check/test that might give a better idea what the sound could be. It runs beautifully otherwise so i have a hard time believing its a rod knock. A couple times when ive started it ive heard a very brief knock noise as it turned over but it was gone in a blink and idling smoothly and quiet until you drive and accelerate. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thank you
 

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Sounds can travel through the engine/engine bay and other parts and make it seem like they're coming from somewhere else. Have you checked the drive belt tensioner to see if it's rattling off its stop?
 
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