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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 2006 g6 2.4L sedan with 108k miles and have generally changed the oil regularly. Today I changed both the intake and exhaust camshaft position sensors and then reset the CEL. I have driven the car close to 50 miles so far and no CEL but I do get the occasional hard shifting. Far from warranty and would rather my car blow up then take it to the dealer. I have looked and googled and have not found a lot of answers. Could anybody point me in the right direction and or help me figure it out.

Dont think its related but i believe i have to change the front driver side hub assembly (actually bearing but a lot easier to change assembly) because when I hear a loud noise coming from that tire and when I turn to the right it gets worse.

Thanks in advanced. I have had so many problems with my 6 would give up on it if I didnt have 2 kids and still owed 5k on it.
 

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which engine?

Most often with a DTC 10 & 11, it's a bad CMP actuator solenoid or it's harness. Resistance across the pins should be 8-12 ohms for an I4. 3.9l should be 4.8-5.2 ohms. If it checks OK, then its in the harness.

Also, certain 06 VINs had an issue with a protruding bolt digging into that harness causing a short to ground of one or more circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If I were to buy the solenoid would I be able to replace it fairly easily so long as I dont loose any screws or is that something a mechanic should do. I have never taken apart a motor but have helped install one on a 99 saturn as well done some tranny work so I do have some mechanic / common sense skills.
 

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If I were to buy the solenoid would I be able to replace it fairly easily so long as I dont loose any screws or is that something a mechanic should do. I have never taken apart a motor but have helped install one on a 99 saturn as well done some tranny work so I do have some mechanic / common sense skills.
Please read my post again & answer the question. It's easy to replace but note that I never said that will fix your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
wow for some reason when I read your post I didnt see half of what you wrote. Too tired to be up let a lone work.

How would I check my VIN (to see if its the one with the bolt problem or just search for the bolt) and what do you mean what engine? 2.4L ? engine s/n ?
 

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How would I check my VIN (to see if its the one with the bolt problem or just search for the bolt)

Lets drop that for now.

On the 2.4l they are very easy to replace. Your problem is with the intake solenoid circuit only. They are clearly marked intake & exhaust. Can you or someone you know use a multimeter to check resistance?
 

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A Chronicle of My G6 Problems

@Resin8or:

I felt like I wrote your first post! Minus me doing all the work lol. Just to let you know, I've had all of the same problems. And now I'll give you a run down of all the problems, big and small, that I've had since buying my car brand new in August 2006.

1) I had to replace both visors as both of them broke.
2) Passenger side speaker blown on door.
3) CD player does not always recognize when there is a disc in. I eject the CD and put it back in and it's usually fine.
4) The car will randomly lock/unlock itself while I'm driving.
5) The check engine light is on all the time. Though, according to the dealer, nothing is wrong.
6) My car started shifting hard about 2 years ago. At first, it was just occasionally. Not enough to really care/notice. Now it does it all the time. It's a rare experience that it DOESN'T shift hard. I've given up on the dealer but neither them nor anyone else that's looked at it can figure out why.
7) The car "clunks" whenever I turn left or right. Started off just when I turned right and it wasn't bad, but now it's horrible.
8) I took my car to the dealer 3 times....why? I was on a road trip and my cruise kept shutting off. Thought the cruise was broken. Finally figured out the brake lights were on when I was driving (the car thought the brakes were being depressed) and would click off when I depressed the brakes. SAFETY ISSUE MUCH?! Needless to say it took 3 dealer visits (at 3 days each) for them to finally tell me I needed a new battery!
9) Today I got in my car and the radio display flashed "POWER STEERING". I noticed it wasn't as fluid when I pulled out of my parking spot. The community I live in has a 25mph speed limit so I didn't notice anything amiss until I pulled out of the community. Then I noticed the car was not shifting out of first, the speedometer wasn't working and the odometer displayed "ERROR". Luckily, the tachometer was working so I kept it at a cool 3,000 RPM and was able to take back roads to my parents house so my dad could look at it. He's managed to get the check engine light to go off.

All of the other problems still exist. The dealer has never been able to fix a damn thing. After the tail light debacle, and the ensuing screaming match I had on the phone, I refuse to go back. Hope this info helps, or at least makes you realize you're not alone. My advice? Get rid of the POS as soon as possible!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Fixed!!!!!

Sorry for the delay but, I have been sick and too tired to do anything with my car untill recently. I have tested the ohms of both the intake and the exhaust solenoids. The exhaust solenoid was at 13 and the intake solenoid was at 0.5!!! So needless to say I replaced the intake solenoid. Also replaced the exhaust solenoid and both cam shaft position sensors to make sure the problem would not come back again. My inspection and emmisions were due by the end of September so I didnt want to take a chance and get a failed inspection. More than likely my problem was the intake solenoid and 0.5 ohms. Thanks for all your help.

Now if there was any way to quiet down my engine and find a decent wheel hub assembly not made from cheap parts. :beer:
 

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Sorry for the delay but, I have been sick and too tired to do anything with my car untill recently. I have tested the ohms of both the intake and the exhaust solenoids. The exhaust solenoid was at 13 and the intake solenoid was at 0.5!!! So needless to say I replaced the intake solenoid. Also replaced the exhaust solenoid and both cam shaft position sensors to make sure the problem would not come back again. My inspection and emmisions were due by the end of September so I didnt want to take a chance and get a failed inspection. More than likely my problem was the intake solenoid and 0.5 ohms. Thanks for all your help.

Now if there was any way to quiet down my engine and find a decent wheel hub assembly not made from cheap parts. :beer:
Great. The solenoids themselves are more often than not the problem. Yours had shorted. More often they increase in resistance until they open. Very easy fix on that engine.
 

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intake solenoid?

Hello!
I have this exact problem with my g6. I am also getting the p0010 and p0011 codes. I went to buy the intake solenoid and they told me there is no such thing? When mentioning that you replaced the intake solenoid ...is there another name for this part? I'm confused?
thanks!
 

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Hello!
I have this exact problem with my g6. I am also getting the p0010 and p0011 codes. I went to buy the intake solenoid and they told me there is no such thing? When mentioning that you replaced the intake solenoid ...is there another name for this part? I'm confused?
thanks!
Model year? Engine?

They are called several different names, so it's a bit confusing when trying to buy them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
:cool::cool:

Dont know if all of the parts are the same ( I only know about my model) but its not an intake solenoid persay. Its a camshaft position solenoid on the intake side. I have a 2.4l engine. I told the dealer thats what I needed and they knew exactly what I was talking about.

In my situation, not sure if it was actually going bad or not but, I ended replacing both the intake side as well as the exhaust side. The intake side was reading at .5 ohms and the exhaust side was reading at 13 ohms. So im assuming it was going to fail shortly after replacing the intake side.

I fixed the problem a few weeks ago and my car runs better than when I got it back in 08 with 26k miles on it. Currently has 110k. Too many doing "shit" while driving for no reason but to tripout and listen to loud music and a lot of pointless "shroom hunting".

I could keep going on and on about the abuse me and my friends have done to the car but I will stop it here.

You should measure the ohms of the solenoids if you can. On a 2.4L engine they are on top of the block on the passenger side. Intake in front and exhaust in back if I remember correctly. Either way you wont be able to switch the intake and exhaust due to the connectors being different. When I get off work and if I dont melt in the sun I can take a couple pictures. The whole process took me about 5 minutes to replace them. Unscrew two screws and pull them right out.

TL;DR Wadsworth constant engaged.
 

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It is a g6 2006 4 cylinder 2.4l. Pictures would definitely be helpful. So is the full name of the part for my car the intake camshaft position solenoid? Thank-you so Much for helping! ! Very much appreciated. And yes I can measure the ohms on the solenoids...what should the intake solenoid read and the exhaust solenoid read if they are properly functioning ?
thanks!!
 

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It is a g6 2006 4 cylinder 2.4l. Pictures would definitely be helpful. So is the full name of the part for my car the intake camshaft position solenoid? Thank-you so Much for helping! ! Very much appreciated. And yes I can measure the ohms on the solenoids...what should the intake solenoid read and the exhaust solenoid read if they are properly functioning ?
thanks!!
For the 2.4l:
both should be 8-12 ohms across the pins
intake camshaft position actuator solenoid valve (but like I said, catalogs can use diff names)

The two tall cylinders next to the #1 cylinder coil are the solenoids:

http://www.g6ownersclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2440&stc=1&d=1317758510

Put some engine oil on the o-rings before you seat them.
 

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