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Colon Fire & Rescue
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Discussion Starter #1
Once again I'm here looking for help. I purchased the car a couple months ago and it had the CEL light on. Took it into auto zone and had the code read. Bank 2 sensor 1 O2. Replaced the sensor and still had the CEL. Long story short i have replaced the 02 sensor, all 6 plugs, wires, and had the o rings on the injector for cylinder 1 replaced. CEL still randomly comes on. Only seems to come on when car is under idol but ONLY when using remote start. I can key start and let it run for hours with no CEL coming on but EVERY time i remote start it runs for about 3 minutes and the CEL comes on and code is alway P0301. I'm getting flustered! Anyone have any input on the situation. Thanks in advance :beer:
 

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Were you getting the 301 before replacing the o2 sensor?

Were you getting the 301 before replacing the #1 plug & wire?

I assume you are clearing the code each time it pops because remote start is disabled by any popped code that turns on the CEL.

The only thing that comes to mind is that when you use RS you let it idle longer when the engine is cold.

What exact code led you to replace the o2 sensor?

How many miles? Which engine?
 

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Colon Fire & Rescue
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36 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The 301 was coming up from day one. With that code was (P0059 HO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 2, Sensor 1)) Which led me to replace the O2 Sensor. Code reset

Code 301 again displayed. Found air leak around Fuel injector for cylinder 1. Had o rings replaced and code reset again

Code 301 again displayed after being started with remote. Replaced plug wires and plugs. Code reset

(NOTE- I can warm the car up with key start and no CEL will come on. Thats why I'm leaning towards something with remote start)

The engine is the (2005) 3.5L with 119,000 Miles

Thanks for your reply
 

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I can't for the life of me come up with an explanation for how a #1 misfire is being caused by RS.

Is that an OEM RS or aftermarket?
 

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Colon Fire & Rescue
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Discussion Starter #5
It is the OEM RS. This has my self and my mechanic both scratching our heads. the best we can some up with is that the RS is causing a disruption in the firing pattern??? Assuming Cylinder 1 is the first to fire. Maybe??
 

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Has your mechanic looked at the misfire data with a scan tool & checked the DTC freeze frame for any clues?

Do you only use the RS on the first cold start of the day or is there any such pattern to when it's used?
 

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Moderator Member Thingy
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Colon Fire & Rescue
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36 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
My mechanic has watched the vehicle run on the scan tool but im not completly sure what he was watching for. If i remote start the car, it usually runs for a few minutes then throws the code. Code will usually resets its self in a day tops. Guess i'll be taking her to a dealer here in the near future :(
 

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Moderator Member Thingy
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Does it act funny before throwing the code?
 

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Colon Fire & Rescue
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Discussion Starter #10
No, not at all, i watched the idel RMP with the remote start and the key start and nothing changed. I don't feel it missing but i assume i wouln't feel a single cylinder anyway. Like i posted earlier the car can sit for a half hour on Keyed start up in the same wather conditions and not throw the code which is what is really confusing the hell out of me :)
 

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Moderator Member Thingy
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Just wondering because I had one of my cylinders misfire, but I never made any correlation between remote start because it only happened twice. The second time it happened I was able to grab a code. I replaced the spark plugs and wires and its been fine since.

I could tell when mine was going to misfire because I would start the car and it would be rough and hesitate. It wouldn't flash the CEL until I cruised down the street though. Restarting the car would remove symptoms though. It was completely random.
 

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Colon Fire & Rescue
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Discussion Starter #12
**UPDATE**
After my 3 hour trip to Indianapolis this weekend i have determined that the remote start is not a factor with the issue. The car is now misfiring on cylinder 1 on a pretty regular basis. I can feel it at idle. I also can feel it when I'm running freeway speeds around 80 MPH. Not so much in the 55-60 MPH range. It's killing my MPG. Only ran 25MPG on the trip. Any more in site would be much appreciated.
 

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Moderator Member Thingy
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I would switch the wire/plug between cylinder 1 and 3 (they are right next to each other). If the code moves over to cylinder 3, then you have a problem with your wire or plug. Even though you said you replaced them, I'm still skeptical.

Take the wire and plug off cylinder 1, and then the wire and plug off cylinder 3. Put cylinder 1's old plug and wire and install it for cylinder 3. Same for cylinder 1.
 

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Colon Fire & Rescue
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Discussion Starter #16
I will try switching the wires and plugs, but realy what would the chances be of brand new plugs and wires being bad on Cylinder 1 again. I mean i know anything is possible. What about coil pack? Since all 6 are in 1 pack would i see it in multiple clyinders if it was bad or could it be isolated to just 1?
 

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Lovely..... If i take it into dealer can they determine bad injector with out removing?
For about 100 bucks, they will give you their diagnosis. They have all the right equipment but I've never been very impressed by their troubleshooting skills. Depends entirely on the mechanic they assign your car to.

Was your original mechanic able to replace the o-ring without pulling the UIM?
 
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