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I have a 2009 Pontiac G6 GT, has about 63,000 miles on it. A little over a week ago I get in the car and it would not start, all that came up was an error message. Eventually after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, it started and it made it's way back home. After that it still would not start consistently, most of the time you would hear a click, or get the error message, however, if you shut the door hard or popped the hood then closed it, the rattle seemed to loosen something and the car could start. Wires have been checked, the battery has been replaced, brand new. The starter motor has been replaced. It worked for a good 20 starts afterwards. Now when attempted to start the car, just the error message again, no click, disconnecting then reconnecting the battery doesn't get it started anymore. It's been a frustrating 10 days or so and now it seems like a computer related problem. Any opinions?
 

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Definitely left it disconnected for at least 5 minutes maybe longer when i replaced the battery but not an hour. I have not done anything electrical to the car, it is bone stock. On a side note, I doubt it has to do with anything, the day it started failing was when I went to get new tires. But I started the car at least 5 times after that with no problems.
 

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I have a 2009 Pontiac G6 GT, has about 63,000 miles on it. A little over a week ago I get in the car and it would not start, all that came up was an error message. Eventually after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, it started and it made it's way back home. After that it still would not start consistently, most of the time you would hear a click, or get the error message, however, if you shut the door hard or popped the hood then closed it, the rattle seemed to loosen something and the car could start. Wires have been checked, the battery has been replaced, brand new. The starter motor has been replaced. It worked for a good 20 starts afterwards. Now when attempted to start the car, just the error message again, no click, disconnecting then reconnecting the battery doesn't get it started anymore. It's been a frustrating 10 days or so and now it seems like a computer related problem. Any opinions?
What is the exact text of the error message?
 

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In the dash where the odometer is displayed it just says "error" and it will also say service traction, or service airbag, mostly the traction one.
 

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In the dash where the odometer is displayed it just says "error" and it will also say service traction, or service airbag, mostly the traction one.
Have someone watch the headlights while you try to crank the engine. Do they dim or go out? Was the charging system warning light ever coming on when you last had it running?
 

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The battery check has already been done, the lights dont dim but in some cases they will just go off completely but not dim. When you turn the key, before you start it the fuel pump should come on otherwise it's not gonna start so before I even see the error message each time, I know it's coming up if I don't hear the fuel pump.
 

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The battery check has already been done, the lights dont dim but in some cases they will just go off completely but not dim. When you turn the key, before you start it the fuel pump should come on otherwise it's not gonna start so before I even see the error message each time, I know it's coming up if I don't hear the fuel pump.
Did you clean the batt terminals with a wire brush when you changed the batt? Did you put anything on the batt posts before putting the terminals back on? You verified the batt ground to the body is clean & tight?
 

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Posts are clean, everything is nice and tight there can't be a cleaner connection than what it has now. And it's a brand new battery. 1 week old.
 

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Here's an quick & easy thing to try. In the engine compartment fuse box identify & mark relays 31, 32 & 53. Then swap 31 & 32 each in turn with relay 53. You can leave the 53 slot empty for the tests. Try to start the engine after each swap.
 

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from the 09 SI:
The odometer information is stored in the body control module (BCM) and is transmitted to the instrument panel cluster (IPC) for display in the driver information center (DIC). The IPC stores a backup copy of the odometer value in case it does not receive a valid odometer reading form the BCM. The last known good odometer value from the BCM is displayed by the IPC. ERROR is displayed in the DIC when the IPC receives an invalid odometer value.
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My thinking is a low system voltage issue but it could be the fretting corrosion of the BCM connector issue or who the heck knows what. Maybe it will turn out to be a bad engine fuse block. Very tough for anyone to diagnose an issue like this but it's near impossible without the use of a multimeter & the SI at the very least. The dealer, with his tech 2, has most of the playing cards. Which, of course, is by design.
 

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I had already read that thread and it does sound exactly like my issue (although I'm positive my car wasn't struck by lightning). I'm positive whatever is wrong is electrical/computer related and I can't do anything about that at home so I just dropped it off at a dealership (I can feel the wallet getting lighter). Luckily there's been a lot of troubleshooting done so far, so with them having that it can save some time not having to replace a battery, starter, alternator with same results. I'll post again when I hear from the dealership and if any solution is found. Dealer was the last resort. =/
 

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I had already read that thread and it does sound exactly like my issue (although I'm positive my car wasn't struck by lightning). I'm positive whatever is wrong is electrical/computer related and I can't do anything about that at home so I just dropped it off at a dealership (I can feel the wallet getting lighter). Luckily there's been a lot of troubleshooting done so far, so with them having that it can save some time not having to replace a battery, starter, alternator with same results. I'll post again when I hear from the dealership and if any solution is found. Dealer was the last resort. =/
You are confusing troubleshooting with throwing parts at a problem. All those components: battery, starter & alternator are easy to test & eliminate as suspect.
 

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Thank you for the incredibly helpful input -_- . There was more done than just replacing the battery and starter. Checked fuses, cables, etc. Any parts "thrown" at the problem were not done without probable cause. It's at the dealership now and I still plan on coming back to explain what they found wrong with it in case anyone else comes across such a problem.
 

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Thank you for the incredibly helpful input -_- . There was more done than just replacing the battery and starter. Checked fuses, cables, etc. Any parts "thrown" at the problem were not done without probable cause. It's at the dealership now and I still plan on coming back to explain what they found wrong with it in case anyone else comes across such a problem.
I apologize if I offended. Wasn't my intent.
 

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I have a 06 G6GT last night I went to start my car with the remote start and pushed the button on the key fob and all the sudden heard a loud bang and a flash from under the front of the car, when i got to the car and opened the car door I could hear some random clicking from the computer and some dash light were trying to flicker, I put the key in the ignition and turned the key and the clicking stopped, but no power, so I opened the hood and could smell battery acid, I removed the battery cover and my battery had exploded, has anyone had the same experience and if so what have you found to be the cause, any help greatly appreciated .... thanks
 
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