Easiest way is to get a LOC (line out converter) and tap into your rear speakers, then just run your RCAs from it to your amp.
Or if your amp has speaker level inputs, then you can just use wire to tap off the rear speakers directly to your amp.
For your remote signal, find a fuse in the center console that is only powered when the car is on (should say "ignition" blow the fuse on the diagram) get an add-a-circuit and use that to get your remote signal.
The rest is just running your power and ground and setting up the amplifier.
Remember to keep your inline fuse within 12" of your battery!
he basicly did lol, if you go to a local sound shop they will have a line converter, one end will have wires that you connect to your rear speakers in the trunk. the other side will have rca imputs (right and left) so from that plug your rca wires in then to your amp. after that you just have to run your ground wire for the amp as well as the main 12v wire. then run another remote wire ither to a switch or to a fuse that will be on with the car ( i put it to a switch and include a fuse on the line.)
i would recommend just installing a HU , it will give you better sound and make things a bit easier, in my opinion. if you dont want to pay allot for the harness you can look up this product
Scosche Gm1593B 2004 & Up Gm Lan Interface Stereo Installation Kit
I know I'm new here, but I have an 06 GT with the monsoon, now I could be missing something here, but if an amp has high and low level imputs... The way I understand it is that the deck feeds low level to the monsoon amplifier, now why couldn't you take the wires going into the monsoon, and use those as low level, and the lines out of the monsoon to the speakers as what connects to the amp, then with a 4ch amp, you'd bypass the monsoon part of it and use an electronic crossover or splitters and feed a 4 ch amp, and a 1-2 ch amp for a sub. Then the crossover or built in crossover could feed the regular speakers and that's it. Basically powering the 1 4ch amp with a power wires, and all the rest of the in and out is run off what's already been wired into the car.
Good point. I used a LOC on the monsoon amp outs to feed my sub amp. Can't remember why I did it that way but your comment has inspired me to revisit the install. One problem I notice about using the monsoon outs is that the volume on my sub amp doesn't appear to parallel the volume with the rest of the system. Lower volume has higher bass, higher volume has higher mid and highs. I often end up turning the volume up to level it out. I think I really need to revisit this.
Speaking of adding an amp to stock system, it looks like there's also two styles of amps and the way they wire it up, which is a waste of wire, when amps have been able to do all of this for many years, or even just with physical attachments to change up the sounds.
1 set up has just 4 wires in and 4 wires out and the 2 extra that go into the rear deck are just spliced.
The other has the front and rear tweeters as separate in's and outs. Like its tweet out from the head unit, and then tweet out of the receiver.
Okay, so maybe what I said was a little confusing. Either way looking at the wiring schematics it's like the amp is powered via a relay. The amp fuse is only 25A, so then instead of rewriting the whole car, why could not use the imputs that are there already since the stock amp is already 200W, I have my own amp that's 200W that has a built in crossover, so that would get rid of the split speakers on the stock system and I could just run them as is provided they have a HF filter in them like every other regular 2/3 way speaker system has. Sure mo sub for now, but as is that should in theory make the cab sound 5 times better should it not?
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