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I cannot find this problem anywhere. I am going to explain it the best I can.

The rear taillights are working except when I hit the break pedal or flip the right turning signal the rear passenger side taillight goes out and the reverse lights come on (very dim). The running lights work but when i hit the pedal the light is out just as if I turned it off. It is only happening on the passenger rear light. Let me say the bulb is not broke as I have changed it many times thus far.

I am lost. I have changed fuses but the light functions fine until the pedal is pressed. The drivers side functions correctly.
 

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I cannot find this problem anywhere. I am going to explain it the best I can.

The rear taillights are working except when I hit the break pedal or flip the right turning signal the rear passenger side taillight goes out and the reverse lights come on (very dim). The running lights work but when i hit the pedal the light is out just as if I turned it off. It is only happening on the passenger rear light. Let me say the bulb is not broke as I have changed it many times thus far.

I am lost. I have changed fuses but the light functions fine until the pedal is pressed. The drivers side functions correctly.
It sounds like you have a bad ground. You need to get a wiring diagram and ring out the wiring on the tail lights. Often what happens, when there's a bad ground - ie, too much resistance in the return path of the electricity - the current will find another path to flow thru. When you hit the brakes, you're breaking the alternate return path which causes the taillights to go out.

The bad ground could be where the return wire connects to the body (ie, where a wire terminal is screwed to the sheet metal) or it could be in the connector at the taillight. I've had to replace both low-beam connectors because they went bad. Not sure the exact cause - galvanic corrosion or something else - but that solved my head lamp problems. So it could be you have a similar problem with the taillight connectors. For the head lamps, the replacement connectors (with pig tails) were about 7 bucks at O'Reilly. I cut off the old ones and soldered the new ones in place, the applied some heat shrink tubing.

If it's the taillight socket/connector, I expect you should be able to find similar replacement units. I took a quick look around the O'Reilly website and struck out, but I'm sure somebody offers them.

HTH.

Doug

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There's a common problem with the BCM connectors getting dirty and screwing around with the rear lights. Most dealerships know about this and will try to charge you an arm and a leg, in many cases they replace the entire BCM (which seems like over-kill to me)

Check out this youtube video:

This guy goes through the motions of what you can try to do to fix it. Simply unplugging and plugging the connector back in will clean it. And MAKE SURE you disconnect the battery first. Also in the video he does just one connector, but it's the wrong one, there are two, and it probably wouldn't hurt to do both. Anyways.

Just some dielectric grease to keep things clean and that could solve your problem. It's an easy thing to try and could save you butt loads of cash if it fixes the problem.
 

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There's a common problem with the BCM connectors getting dirty and screwing around with the rear lights. Most dealerships know about this and will try to charge you an arm and a leg, in many cases they replace the entire BCM (which seems like over-kill to me)
I wasn't aware of this issue with the G6, but have seen a similar issue on my 2002 Impala. In that case, it was a no-start/security-light issue. This TSB addresses it.

I use much same procedure as the video describes to clean the Impy's BCM connectors.

I'm surprised the taillights could be affected this way, but I know better than to bet on it :D

Doug

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Yea those BCMs are screwy, Nissan has it the worst. If you install an aftermarket remote start on a nissan with push button start, you'll have crazy issues down the road, Like one headlight will blink with the turn signal, one wiper would be going. Reverse lights work as brake lights, stuff is crazy! haha
 

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The OP's issue is not likely caused by BCM connector fretting corrosion.

It is commonly caused by corrosion in the tail lamp socket itself. Pull the lamp from the socket & look for signs of corrosion. If not that then someone will need to troubleshoot the circuit with a multimeter. I can supply the schematics.
 

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Having worked for a dealer i can definitaly say that they are perfectly aware of this situation, there is a technical service bulletin put out by GM about this situation. Most people will experience cruise control malfunction (wont activate when you press the ''set'' button or cruise control will deactivate out of no where while driving with the cruise control).

All my mecanics that i worked with all said the same thing, this is a "normal" condition with the G6.

One good way to find out if the problem is either the Brake pedal position sensor or not is to have someone behind the vehicle while you fiddle around with the BPPS. if the lights go on and off while you are just fiddling with the BPPS than its the sensor that needs to be replaced.

If the BPPS doesnt react to the fiddling then the first step would be to apply dielectrick grease to the BCM connector as shown in the video above.

Also as my mecanics told me this will temporarily fix the problem but it is not a permanant fix, eventually the BPPS sensor AND BCM will have to be replaced at one point.

Bad manufacturing ?... Maybe... who knows
 

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Having worked for a dealer i can definitaly say that they are perfectly aware of this situation, there is a technical service bulletin put out by GM about this situation. Most people will experience cruise control malfunction (wont activate when you press the ''set'' button or cruise control will deactivate out of no where while driving with the cruise control).

All my mecanics that i worked with all said the same thing, this is a "normal" condition with the G6.

One good way to find out if the problem is either the Brake pedal position sensor or not is to have someone behind the vehicle while you fiddle around with the BPPS. if the lights go on and off while you are just fiddling with the BPPS than its the sensor that needs to be replaced.

If the BPPS doesnt react to the fiddling then the first step would be to apply dielectrick grease to the BCM connector as shown in the video above.

Also as my mecanics told me this will temporarily fix the problem but it is not a permanant fix, eventually the BPPS sensor AND BCM will have to be replaced at one point.

Bad manufacturing ?... Maybe... who knows
Any chance that you have that bulletin number? Thanks in advance.
 

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unfortunately no seeing as i no longer work for a gm dealer

sorry
Sounds like you're referring to this one concerning fretting corrosion of the BCM terminals. That is a different problem then the OP's one-sided issue.
_________________________________________

#08-05-22-009C: Intermittently Brake Lights (Stop Lamps) Do Not Function Correctly, Cruise Control Inop, DTCs C0131/C0161/C0277 (Perform Repair Outlined) - (Sep 30, 2010)


Subject: Intermittently Brake Lights (Stop Lamps) Do Not Function Correctly, Extended Travel to Shift Out of Park, Cruise Control Inoperative, DTCs C0131, C0161 or C0277 Set (Perform Repair as Outlined)


Models: 2004-2008 Chevrolet Malibu, Malibu Maxx

2008 Chevrolet Malibu Classic

2008-2011 Chevrolet Malibu

2005-2010 Pontiac G6

2007-2009 Saturn AURA




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This bulletin is being revised to update the models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-05-22-009B (Section 05 - Brakes).


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Condition
Some customers may comment that intermittently the brake lights do not function correctly. Other symptoms may include extended pedal travel required to shift out of PARK, cruise control does not function correctly, and DTC C0131, C0161 and/or C0277 may be set.

Cause
The most likely cause of this condition is high resistance due to terminal fretting corrosion in the body control module (BCM) C2 or X2 connector (specifically pins 18, 31 and 59).

Correction
DO NOT replace the BCM for this condition. Disconnecting the C2 or X2 connector, adding dielectric lubricant and reconnecting the connector per the procedure below will correct the high resistance condition due to terminal fretting corrosion.

Remove the right side front floor console side trim panel to access to the Body Control Module (BCM).
Locate the C2 or X2 connector on the BCM.
Unlatch the connector and disconnect the connector from the BCM.
Apply dielectric lubricant (clear gel), GM P/N 12377900 (in Canada, use P/N 10953529) or equivalent, on all the connector pins (apply with a one-inch nylon bristle brush). This will treat the pins against fretting corrosion.
Reconnect the connector back on the BCM and re-latch. Wipe away any excess lubricant.
Reinstall the right side front floor console side trim panel.
Using the Tech 2®, check that the BPPS ratio is equal to BPPS learned home when the brake pedal is not depressed.
• If they are equal, the brake lamps should be operating correctly and no further steps are necessary.

• If they are not equal, perform the Brake Pedal Position Sensor Calibration procedure in SI to complete the repair.

Verify proper operation of the brake lights. If incorrect, refer to SI and perform normal diagnostics.
 
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