all thats needed are sockets with ratchet,c-clamp is what you'll need, car jacked up, there are only 2 bolts holding the caliper on to get to the pads. Then there are 2 bolts holding the brake pad bracket on. once the brackets off you can take the rotor off. the c-clamp is to compress the cylinder in the caliper in all the way. I recomend you use brake lube on the pad contact areas of the brake pad bracket. also use brake cleaner on the rotors & calipers after new install. good luck
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Well I was able to replace all the pads and rotors, and then took it to a shop to have the lines flushed. Total was ~$430 for EBC pads and rotors on the front, Advanced Auto parts on the rear, and a flush from Goodyear, plus a few beers for my neighbor that lent me his jack.
I needed, and your experience may vary...
-Sockets and Wrench, 50/50 metric and standard
-Needle Nose Pliers (to turn the rear piston)
-Jack and Stands
-Flat Head Screw Driver
-Rubber Mallet
-C-Clamp (to compress the front piston)
-Grease
-Brake Cleaner
-Tooth Brush (to scrub some dirty parts)
-Jack Hammer with Jaws of Life Add On (to remove the lock washers on the old rotors)
-Beer
I needed, and your experience may vary...
-Sockets and Wrench, 50/50 metric and standard
-Needle Nose Pliers (to turn the rear piston)
-Jack and Stands
-Flat Head Screw Driver
-Rubber Mallet
-C-Clamp (to compress the front piston)
-Grease
-Brake Cleaner
-Tooth Brush (to scrub some dirty parts)
-Jack Hammer with Jaws of Life Add On (to remove the lock washers on the old rotors)
-Beer
Thanks for the up-date, I plan to do the brakes on mine in a month or so. Depending on my mood I might take pics and add a little write up.
I'm changing the brakes on the Pinto first (of course you won't need a write on that here!).
I'm changing the brakes on the Pinto first (of course you won't need a write on that here!
).I was thinking of doing a write up with some pictures but then I got lazy, sorry...Thanks for the up-date, I plan to do the brakes on mine in a month or so. Depending on my mood I might take pics and add a little write up.
I'm changing the brakes on the Pinto first (of course you won't need a write on that here!
Specific to a 2007 G6 VL 2.4L, you experience may vary.
But once you get the tire off, and the car in the air, you can spray the bolts on the calipers and pad holder with WD-40 to help them out a little.
Remove the bolts on the caliper and use a flat head to pry it forward and off, then you can pop the pads out. I think these were 13mm
Remove the bolts on the pad holder and pop that out, you will want to remove the bent peices of sheet metal on either side, carefully, and clean them and re-install them. They only go on one way but be careful.
Remove and lube the piston like things on the pad holder, make sure the dust covers are back in place and they should move freely once installed, ie puch down on them and they should quickly and smoothly pop back.
Remove, if you can the lock washers on the rotor. Then you can take the old rotor off and put the new one on. I was told not to touch the braking surface.
Now you can reinstall the new rotor, and then the pad holder, put all the bolts back in and make sure the small peices of sheet metal are on and correct.
NOTE: You could put new lock washers on, as I distroyed mine and once I got them off I through them across the yard, cursing them. You dont need them...
On the pads, use the old ones as a reference, install the travel stop should be one stop on each side of the car, so on 2 out of the 4 pads, I think it goes on the inside one. Use the ones you removed as a reference.
Use a C-Clamp and the old pad to push the caliper piston back in, be careful of the dust cover boot around the piston make sure it is even and almost flush, otherwise you will burn the boot while driving on it. It is not a function critical part, but it keeps dirt out of the system. Remove the C-Clamp and slide the caliper over the new pads. Bolt her down.
Reinstall the tire and do it all over again.
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Differences in the rear job.
Same bolts and smaller pads and rotors, but it all looks the same, and the order is all the same.
Big difference is you need to have the parking brake OFF, and chock your wheels! You should chock your wheels anyway. Instead of using the C-Clamp to compress the rear pistons, use a set of needle nose plyers to turn (righty tighty) the piston into it self, it is very easy.
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Finally a test drive with a curb (end of drive way) warrenty.
I also highly recommend the brake line flush, I had it done as I hear it is a dirty pain in the @$$ job. The rotors and pads made the ride more comfortable, and the flush took the 1" of travel out of the brake pedal before something happened. Overall it was well worth the money.
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