[ArcticWolf91]

I've had an issue with my '07 convertible here recently and have tried to figure it out for some time. I've searched the site and can't seem to find anything about it.

I went to open the top a couple days ago and everything seems normal with the exception that the trunk will not fold back to allow the top to move. I don't think it's the pump as you can hear the whining sound like it's trying to move it but it's unable to lift it properly. The trunk functions normally and i can access it without a problem. Having the top isn't a necessity as it's starting to get into the humid and rainy season here in Florida but it is nice to be able to put it down now and again when it's a little cooler at night.

Could it be the hydraulic pump or would it be something else that allows the trunk lid to reverse open? And would it be something that I could do myself? I'm currently in the process of personally replacing a lot of the front suspension components when i get the free time. Lol! I would love to avoid an expensive dealership cost if possible!

Thank you for any help you can provide!

 

[boomer]

First thing I would check is the fluid level on the convertible pump along with the pressure release bolt being secure (long shot unless someone has opened it). You probably know the difference in sound from the single pitch whirring from the descending sound as the pump builds pressure. If the fluid level is good you may still have a pressure leak if it is just whirring. I have had both a clear weeping leak on one of my main cylinders that allowed things to almost work and what must have been a much larger leak followed by an inability to build any pressure that resulted in the single tone whirring noise but no action. In the end I had to replace both of the hydraulic rams that move the roof.

Hope you get it sorted

 

[Jordandingus]

Have you found a solid solution for this? I'm having the same issue.

 

[davez26]

On my top systems were the same, latches release, pump fires, and pump sounds good. I looked the system over, didn't see much to grouse about. I spoke to one of my coworkers in the shop who has a Snap-On scanner, (Not that autozone stuff).
The car had code b3336,

Left front latch not passing test.
See, the car unlatches the deck, primes the pump then asks for clearance. If a latch reports back that it is still engaged, the pump will not process the fluid command, as a stuck down trunk could get pretty damaged by the rams.
I verified latches releasing, good start, and looked for a way to bypass the sensors that report the news to the BCM. Basically I wanted to confirm everything else was okay.

During my search to figure out a bypass, I found one pinched/broken wire, two creased, one okay. I tape twisted them as a test, and it turned out good.
I used some proper sealing connectors and routed the harnes in an exact mirror image of the right.
Working good so far!

I suppose you could do a very thorough wiring inspection up by those hinges as a good start. I reckon that the 5 minute scan saved me a ton of time and money
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[boomer]

Nice one. Glad you got it sorted. Good to have a friend with a decent scan tool.

 

[davez26]

Well, I have an edge, he's an employee and I work for a dealership. I also had to buy his lunch
I really tried to figure this out manually, but with the host of sensors, it seems that the only way to quickly work through a top issue is to scan for codes. They won't light on the dash, as they are BCM, not ECM so you have to scan for them differently and I don't think the AutoZone, and other low lines have the capability.
Sure, the first thing is to religiously inspect the wiring, then if no dice, get thee to a very good shop or dealership to run the codes.
I suspect if I had inch by inch looked I could have found my break, or I could have done a lot of trial and error, but the scan definitely pointed me in a direction.

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[ArcticWolf91]

On my top systems were the same, latches release, pump fires, and pump sounds good. I looked the system over, didn't see much to grouse about. I spoke to one of my coworkers in the shop who has a Snap-On scanner, (Not that autozone stuff).
The car had code b3336,

Left front latch not passing test.
See, the car unlatches the deck, primes the pump then asks for clearance. If a latch reports back that it is still engaged, the pump will not process the fluid command, as a stuck down trunk could get pretty damaged by the rams.o
I verified it was opening, good start, an looked for a way to bypass the sensors that report the new to the BCM.

Found one pinched/ broken wire, two creased, one okay. I tape twisted them as a test, and it turned out good.
I eventually used some proper sealing connectors and routes the harnes in an exact mirror image of the right.
Working good so far!

I suppose you could do a very thourough wiring inspection up,by those hinges. I reckon that the 5 minute scan saved me a ton of time and money
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I never thought to check the wiring around the hinges but low and be hold, the wiring on the passenger side is cut through! Gonna fix and will update soon!

 

[davez26]

That's good news! sorta.
On the lh side, there was extra harness to pull up to allow the repair. If possible, you want to stagger your repairs, so you don't have a huge splice blob to try to tuck in the small space you have to work with, and for higher current circuits, it keeps heat down. I used shrink connector Napa #725226. You strip your wires, place the wires in each end, mingle the strands and heat. The solder melts between the strands for a clean low resistance connection. I used the fireplace lighter.
I took numerous photos before and kept an eye on the other side to best replicate the routing.
After, I cycled the top with numerous stops to confirm clearance. There isn't much. I have no idea how these wires became damaged!
Anyway, it all worked out okay.
I hope that this helps!

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[ArcticWolf91]

So not sure if anyone is still around this thread or not. Lol!

So, this may have taken me a few months to get around to doing, simply because it's Florida and way to hot to attempt... plus work...

But I managed to get the wiring fixed tonight and now I'm facing a bigger problem. When I go to open the top, the trunk will unlatch as it should, followed by the top unlatching. However, the trunk will not continue without a little help from a second person and I noticed that when I gently lift the trunk, I can hear the sensors being pressed and then the hydraulics will take it over from there. Okay, no big deal... I usually only put the top down when the fiance is with me. Now comes the fun part, I just struggled for almost an hour and a half before finally getting the top to go back up. I thought it may have been the same problem but when you gently lift the trunk up, you can hear the click of the sensors and then the entire system shuts down and will not do anything. It's like the sensors are telling it to stop or something. I'm not sure... Hell, if could be the lift for the trunk is getting weak or I could possibly be low on hydraulic fluid??

I hope that something in this makes sense because it's starting to drive me mad now. Would love to be able to use it now that the weather will be cooling down in the next month or so!

 

[davez26]

You can check the fluid, on the right side of the trunk behind the panel is the motor/pump/reservoir. There is a min/max line. Check there. If below minimum, pretty good sign of leaking hydraulic lift.
This one is a little perplexing.
Unfortunately with these tops the tech2 scan tool or snapon equivalent are the only way I know to run a body code and function test, and unless you have a smoking gun, may be the best way to determine what's not doing the job.

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[xkarlax]

hi guys, i have a 2007 Pontiac G6 GT convertible. i have a similar problem to the users above, my top is stuck in my trunk. going by you guys instructions and suggestions. I have done the following, i have checked the fluid in the hydraulic chamber and filled it, i have fixed the wired that where a little torn, but after trying to open the top again i have recently found that the chamber is leaking and since the top is in the trunk i have no access to it. I read that you can take the top out the trunk manually by releasing the hydraulic pressure relief valve on the pump.

Now my question is if you guys know where that valve is specifically located on the pump so i can manually pull the top out the trunk. thank you guys

 

[JLondon]

hi guys, i have a 2007 Pontiac G6 GT convertible. i have a similar problem to the users above, my top is stuck in my trunk. going by you guys instructions and suggestions. I have done the following, i have checked the fluid in the hydraulic chamber and filled it, i have fixed the wired that where a little torn, but after trying to open the top again i have recently found that the chamber is leaking and since the top is in the trunk i have no access to it. I read that you can take the top out the trunk manually by releasing the hydraulic pressure relief valve on the pump.

Now my question is if you guys know where that valve is specifically located on the pump so i can manually pull the top out the trunk. thank you guys

If you've had to fill the hydraulic reservoir, then you have a leak somewhere (as you already suspect). If you have a leak, then pressure is already released and you (with a helper) should be able to lift the top out of the trunk and manually secure in the closed position. You'll then need to go through the troubleshooting steps of finding the leak. Leaking main hydraulic rams is common. Look and feel each main ram.

 

[xkarlax]

If you've had to fill the hydraulic reservoir, then you have a leak somewhere (as you already suspect). If you have a leak, then pressure is already released and you (with a helper) should be able to lift the top out of the trunk and manually secure in the closed position. You'll then need to go through the troubleshooting steps of finding the leak. Leaking main hydraulic rams is common. Look and feel each main ram.

Thank yo

If you've had to fill the hydraulic reservoir, then you have a leak somewhere (as you already suspect). If you have a leak, then pressure is already released and you (with a helper) should be able to lift the top out of the trunk and manually secure in the closed position. You'll then need to go through the troubleshooting steps of finding the leak. Leaking main hydraulic rams is common. Look and feel each main ram.

Okay I’ll do that next. Thank you for the info!

 

[boomer]

If you believe you have a leak, the main rams for the roof are one of the most common to fail. I would suggest removing the plastic covers by the rear window and top of the seatbelts whilst the roof is down. This will allow you to see the top end of the cylinders and get at the pins for the main rams if you need to remove them. Good luck getting it fixed.

 

[scotty_t]

If you've had to fill the hydraulic reservoir, then you have a leak somewhere (as you already suspect). If you have a leak, then pressure is already released and you (with a helper) should be able to lift the top out of the trunk and manually secure in the closed position. You'll then need to go through the troubleshooting steps of finding the leak. Leaking main hydraulic rams is common. Look and feel each main ram.

i found the relief allen screw on the pump, i backed it out until i felt resistance and stopped turning. is that enough or should i completely remove the screw? once pressure is relieved can the top be manually raised without disconnecting the rams? i bought this for a work car so when i get the top up it's staying up! THANKS

 

[boomer]

You do not have to remove the screw. Assuming the trunk is in the reverse open position a couple of you should be able to lift the top out and over into the closed position. Another option is to ensure you have enough fluid in the reservoir (Pentosin CHF11F) and go for what I would term a hydraulic assist. This depends on where the leak is and how bad. After putting the allen screw back to normal, one person works the button and two of you, being careful not to trap or lose any body parts, lift the top out and over into the closed position and let the hydraulics do the rest. If it is leaking badly then this will not work as you will be unable to build pressure. Hope you get it closed and drivable again.

 

[JLondon]

You do not have to remove the screw. Assuming the trunk is in the reverse open position a couple of you should be able to lift the top out and over into the closed position. Another option is to ensure you have enough fluid in the reservoir (Pentosin CHF11F) and go for what I would term a hydraulic assist. This depends on where the leak is and how bad. After putting the allen screw back to normal, one person works the button and two of you, being careful not to trap or lose any body parts, lift the top out and over into the closed position and let the hydraulics do the rest. If it is leaking badly then this will not work as you will be unable to build pressure. Hope you get it closed and drivable again.

What he said 👆👆👆

 

[Convertme]

What he said 👆👆👆

Agree.... Just a point of clarification. I had a chuckle about this. I am sure that "Boomer" meant human "body" parts. Not car body parts. Although you don't want to lose any of them either.

 

[scotty_t]

You do not have to remove the screw. Assuming the trunk is in the reverse open position a couple of you should be able to lift the top out and over into the closed position. Another option is to ensure you have enough fluid in the reservoir (Pentosin CHF11F) and go for what I would term a hydraulic assist. This depends on where the leak is and how bad. After putting the allen screw back to normal, one person works the button and two of you, being careful not to trap or lose any body parts, lift the top out and over into the closed position and let the hydraulics do the rest. If it is leaking badly then this will not work as you will be unable to build pressure. Hope you get it closed and drivable again.

Thanks for the reply. My deck lid never attempted to open backwards so I opened it the regular direction and removed it. the top was still latched at the front and held by the rear latch/hinge. In the front I pulled some pins that released the latches. At the rear I disconnected the cylinder attached to the latch/hinge then pivoted that out of the way releasing the rear of the top assembly. I then disconnected the cylinders the would raise the top. I was able to raise the top by myself then manually latch it. I didn't bother to reconnect the cylinders except the latch/hinge jut to keep it from moving. I don't plan on ever putting the top down again so it should fine. Hopefully this will of help to someone in the same position I was.

 

[Convertme]

If you don't have plans to use the top again, you may have significant value in parts. Not surè if you have considered this? I don't want anything this time.