[davez26]

On my top systems were the same, latches release, pump fires, and pump sounds good. I looked the system over, didn't see much to grouse about. I spoke to one of my coworkers in the shop who has a Snap-On scanner, (Not that autozone stuff).
The car had code b3336,

Left front latch not passing test.
See, the car unlatches the deck, primes the pump then asks for clearance. If a latch reports back that it is still engaged, the pump will not process the fluid command, as a stuck down trunk could get pretty damaged by the rams.
I verified latches releasing, good start, and looked for a way to bypass the sensors that report the news to the BCM. Basically I wanted to confirm everything else was okay.

During my search to figure out a bypass, I found one pinched/broken wire, two creased, one okay. I tape twisted them as a test, and it turned out good.
I used some proper sealing connectors and routed the harnes in an exact mirror image of the right.
Working good so far!

I suppose you could do a very thorough wiring inspection up by those hinges as a good start. I reckon that the 5 minute scan saved me a ton of time and money
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[davez26]

Well, I have an edge, he's an employee and I work for a dealership. I also had to buy his lunch
I really tried to figure this out manually, but with the host of sensors, it seems that the only way to quickly work through a top issue is to scan for codes. They won't light on the dash, as they are BCM, not ECM so you have to scan for them differently and I don't think the AutoZone, and other low lines have the capability.
Sure, the first thing is to religiously inspect the wiring, then if no dice, get thee to a very good shop or dealership to run the codes.
I suspect if I had inch by inch looked I could have found my break, or I could have done a lot of trial and error, but the scan definitely pointed me in a direction.

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[davez26]

That's good news! sorta.
On the lh side, there was extra harness to pull up to allow the repair. If possible, you want to stagger your repairs, so you don't have a huge splice blob to try to tuck in the small space you have to work with, and for higher current circuits, it keeps heat down. I used shrink connector Napa #725226. You strip your wires, place the wires in each end, mingle the strands and heat. The solder melts between the strands for a clean low resistance connection. I used the fireplace lighter.
I took numerous photos before and kept an eye on the other side to best replicate the routing.
After, I cycled the top with numerous stops to confirm clearance. There isn't much. I have no idea how these wires became damaged!
Anyway, it all worked out okay.
I hope that this helps!

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[davez26]

You can check the fluid, on the right side of the trunk behind the panel is the motor/pump/reservoir. There is a min/max line. Check there. If below minimum, pretty good sign of leaking hydraulic lift.
This one is a little perplexing.
Unfortunately with these tops the tech2 scan tool or snapon equivalent are the only way I know to run a body code and function test, and unless you have a smoking gun, may be the best way to determine what's not doing the job.

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