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Okay , first of all.... Hello G6 Forum members! Hope everyone is safe and staying the hell away from each other. These are weird times for sure! One thing I have gained from this pandemic is a black 07 G6 GT convertible. She's a bit rough around the edges....5 owners and 139,000 miles. She was sitting under a carport for over a year just ignored and nearly forgotten. When I first saw it I couldn't help but feel really sorry for it. She had a valve cover leak, iol pressure sender leaking as well, seriously oxidized paint, a completely collapsed passenger side bumper cover, and the top wouldn't move. Passenger rear window regulator broken, no A/C, and smelled just like she lived in a pull a part. The pros....interior flawless, except for the rear bumper it hasn't been wrecked. Rims all original with zero road rash. Besides the oil leaks the engine was quiet and seemed in good condition. he wanted $4500 firm so I politely told him " good luck with that but I told him I wouldn't pay more than $2500.... He was not budging on the price....later that evening he texted he would take $2500....after some thought I replied $2200 cash and he took it. That being said, I brought her home and first priority was the oil change.. did that....replaced both valve cover gaskets and oil pressure sender...it had the wrong dipstick as well so it looked overfilled but I have the right one now. I changed the oil pressure sender at the same time but when I took the plug out of the sender it crumbled into tiny pieces because the oil had been leaking through the wiring harness and basically destroyed the plug. I'm waiting on a new plug to come in from Amazon but putting the new sender in stopped the leak.... as soon as I get the plug I will reattach the wires plug it back in but car seemed to run okay without it being plugged in. I then decided to Go ahead and order the main lift rams which were both leaking terribly I went through a jug in pentosin before I realized how bad it was. I found some used ones on eBay installed them and they work perfect. I'm going to have the other ones rebuilt so I have a spare set. But they are leak free and the top goes up and down smoothly. The tonneau cover was in pieces in the trunk and beyond repair but I have a plan for that as well. I decided to get some new headlights as so I found some Spec D ones brand new for 50 bucks on marketplace...so much better than the yellow leaking factory ones but they came with h1 halogen bulbs. I am spoiled on HIDs because my Saab has factory ones and idk, HID saturates and really gives a safer nighttime driving experience. So I ordered a zentech 35watt canbus conversion kit. When I got it and hooked them up they wouldn't come on. I remembered I had put HIDs on my 94 Jeep Cherokee off-road roof lights that were less than a few months old. I got 2 ballasts and hooked them up and they powered up fine so I installed them and they worked great for about a week. One night I turned on the lights and they wouldn't come on. All the other lights were fine except for the low beams. Both fuses were blown so after replacing the fuses which blew as well I figured it must be the ballasts or idk....something. I put the halogen ones back in....replaced the fuses, and they worked! I figured maybe the car just didn't like them. I've converted a few cars this way with no issues. So since this incident, I have been having issues with starting car and getting the check engine light. At first it was P0430. Catalytic converter I'm assuming from reading other owners posts. I have the Torque pro apo and an OBD code reader and can clear the check engine light. When I do the clear command the check engine code clears, then a beep, then oil light illuminates. I'm assuming it's because it's not plugged in but when I turn off the car then restart it all of the lights go away. And every once in a while that P0430 code will come up and a simple clear and it was gone also whether the check engine light comes on or not it has no effect on how the engine runs. HOWEVER, over the last few days I would go to start it cold and as soon as you hit the starter it starts click click clicking like it's not getting enough power but does start. When it does it sounds like it's in limp mode and missing on a few cylinders. Check engine light comes on and I keep my torque turned on my phone so I clear the code and light goes away and it runs perfectly. And will drive all day with no issues but the next day it's glitchy again and I have to repeat the process. My Saab is very glitchy when the battery is weak and with the time this car sat up, even thought the date was from 2018 I decided to replace the battery. There had been a couple of times like when I was either working on the top or had the doors open that the battery was drained and I had to jump her off. so I went ahead and put the new battery in it and it changed nothing and still was really hard to get started and I had to get on the torque app very quickly to clear the code or it wouldn't continue to run. And each day's been getting progressively worse I've attached the pictures of codes it's throwing and they're just random codes for the most part but like I said once I clear the check engine light it runs fine so I'm kind of at a loss and not sure where I should proceed. From what I've read the engine control module sits right in the very front of the battery compartment and is exposed and really gets a hard life being in the front of the engine like that and with it throwing multiple codes I'm pretty sure it's the culprit. Especially when I clear the codes it runs great. Unfortunately it's gotten so bad now that I can't get the car started quickly enough to hit the clear command. So in short I think that for whatever reason installing the HIDs somehow caused the ECM to glitch up. Any of you have any advice to share on this? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks y'all!!
 

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Looks like you have done quite a bit and are well on the way to a nice convertible. Glad you were able to find the hydraulic parts and they were in good shape. Hope it continues to work well for you.

For the weird starting and electrical issues you might try:-
  • Getting the battery tested - often a simple and overlooked problem.
  • If you have jump leads, try using one to add a temporary ground to the body or engine block to test starting and idle (don't drive with it like that). Bad / rotted grounds can cause weird electrical issues and poor start. I added extra grounds to mine as well as additional power and alternator wiring (with a fuse)
  • Add dielectric grease to the ECU and BCM connectors. Push it into the pin holes on the female connectors. There are some factory recalls where this is all they do to fix some issues.
For the HIDS it is often recommended to remove the DRL fuse so that the HIDS do not try and fire up with reduced daylight running light voltage.

Hope some of this helps and you get to enjoy the convertible lifestyle
 

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Yeah I've been having problems with mine as well. this part here (GM# 10364454) keeps going out. and replacing them with used ones from the junk yard isn't helping. $100 bucks for the used replacement, $50 for the shop to put it on, another $190 for another shop to reprogram the top, cause the 1st grease monkeys couldn't do it. And now it's stuck in the down position and wont come back up. NEW replacement is discontinued and unavailable. This was originally an $18 part. None in US, Guam or Canada. not sure where else to look or where else they were sold.
@ this point I'd try to have it rebuild but no local hydraulic shop can do it. I don't want to through good money away on bad used parts. I'm not sure what to do now.

17908
 

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@ this point I'd try to have it rebuild but no local hydraulic shop can do it. I don't want to through good money away on bad used parts. I'm not sure what to do now.
I sent mine to Top Hydraulics. They look to have done good quality work and when I did have an issue (one of the end caps looked to be working loose) they took care of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

  1. Looks like you have done quite a bit and are well on the way to a nice convertible. Glad you were able to find the hydraulic parts and they were in good shape. Hope it continues to work well for you.

    For the weird starting and electrical issues you might try:-
    • Getting the battery tested - often a simple and overlooked problem.
    • If you have jump leads, try using one to add a temporary ground to the body or engine block to test starting and idle (don't drive with it like that). Bad / rotted grounds can cause weird electrical issues and poor start. I added extra grounds to mine as well as additional power and alternator wiring (with a fuse)
    • Add dielectric grease to the ECU and BCM connectors. Push it into the pin holes on the female connectors. There are some factory recalls where this is all they do to fix some issues.
    [*]For the HIDS it is often recommended to remove the DRL fuse so that the HIDS do not try and fire up with reduced daylight running light voltage.

    Hope some of this helps and you get to enjoy the convertible lifestyle
    Thanks Boomer! after further research I'm now thinking that the wires hanging down with oil pressure sender which are right next to the starter maybe arcing or grounding or something and also when I clear the check engine light the oil light comes on which would explain a lot so today when I get off I'm going to reattach oil pressure sender I got a new harness that came in and hopefully that'll fix the glitch I'll keep you updated thank you so much for your reply you rock
 

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Update.... Remove the starter and wired up the new pigtail for the oil pressure sender plug it in reinstalled the starter and start it up and 0 glitches it started right up smoothly no codes were thrown no check engine light however the oil pressure light comes on now and I'm 99.9% sure I wired it correctly because the remainder of the plug was still hanging underneath and I just went wire by wire and reattached the new plug to it however it was a cheap sending unit that I got for I think less than $20. If I went ahead and got the GM part it may solve the oil light coming on. Idk it was such a pain to remove the old one. I doubt I will tolerate it long though, I'm just so glad it's not throwing codes or operating at reduced power any more. Thanks again y'all!
 
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