I'm running my A/C vent LEDs off the BCM dimming output, and at the moment there are 84 of them, so it wouldn't be a problem if you added a couple.So I realize now that due to the body control unit I probably want to avoid stealing power there. Anybody run wires through the door to the frame yet? Just wondering how difficult it will be to get the wire through the rubber door hose and accessing it next to the seat.
And so I assume I don't need to answer the PM...Ok, so I remembered I paid for a subscription to that eautorepair website over a year ago, and I went looking for a wiring diagram. Now, I have the diagram, and no idea how to read it, if anyone could elaborate?
I circled the area in question.
For the rear seat, no they are not. Ignore what the diagram seems to be telling you. I wish they were as I would like to light up those switches (and I just may some day).Ok, thank you. Aren't one of those wires connected to the dimmer switch somehow?
Yes. If you follow the wires through the diagram, you would see that in their resting position that the window switches connect both sides of the motor to ground, so it doesn't matter which wire you connect to.Ok. So I can add the negative to terminal g or f and it makes no difference?
Yes.And then I suppose the window lock rocker switch would be my control switch in a sense?
No problem, the solution didn't even occur to me until I was looking closer at the diagram last night.Thanks for the help by the way I have been tryin to figure this out for a little while now, lol.
Yeah, hope you enjoyed that light while it lasted, and I hope you like your LEDs cooked to well done.Well now I've hit another wall, lol. They worked fine with a 9v test run, and they worked fine installed to the 12v for about twenty mins then nothin. Two of my LEDs no longer work even when connected to a battery alone. I had a 360 ohm resistor in a circuit with three 1.7 watt 3000 mcd 20a LEDs. Any ideas?
The example I gave you is for one LED individually wired to one door connector. If you have three LEDs in series from the same power supply:Ok 20a was a typo I'm on an iPhone not a computer. Moving on, I used the resistor calculator which said 390ohm 0.23 watt resistor for a series of three. Now I might have misunderstood their meaning. Are you saying in a closed circuit containing the three LEDs I should have one 690 ohm resistor before the first led positive connection, or one 690 ohm resistor before each individual led in the circuit?
From my post above:Yes, I am putting three LEDs in each door, I hadn't thought about the maximum power being over 12v so that certainly clears it up. I figure at 12v the 390ohm wouldve worked but I can see the error. Also, should I go with a 470 ohm 1/8 or 1/4 watt if I'm putting one per door per three LEDs?